Steering n suspension

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Bobsticle

Bobsticle

De Villes Advocaat
Posts
27,632
Location
Manchester
just about there with Henrys front end.
The steering and suspension can call itself renovated until the next thing breaks.
Last job was bushes. But the originals seemed ok. It turned out the bolts through the shackles had worn down giving a little too much play.
The more I have done the worse it feels. Yes its all tighter and a little more responsive but also much harder. I'd forgotten just how hard it was supposed to be.
I think I preferred it before I started messing.
 
1000 apologies if this doesn't apply in your case, but, again and again, I've seen steering boxes over-tightened **. As an example, my 109 didn't steer well when I bought it, and backing off the steering box adjustment to a sensible compromise between play and tightness made a big improvement.

Is there oil in the relay?

How tight are the swivels?

** Tappets too are often found adjusted over tight, in the hope of making them quieter.
 
The problem with all steering boxes is they wear most in the middle of the travel so if you adjust the play out at mid point they can get very stiff when you try to turn more than a little, it is as said above, a compromise.
 
rob1miles said:
The problem with all steering boxes is they wear most in the middle of the travel so if you adjust the play out at mid point they can get very stiff when you try to turn more than a little, it is as said above, a compromise.
Click to expand...

Which I normally caused by a worn relay as on a straight road you are fighting the relay as the steering rocks slightly from side to side so in the end the steering box wares where the wheels are straight aswell as the relay and everything else aswell.
 
I think he was. Doing bushes and springs is one of the worst jobs on a landy. No finesse required just grind, cut, burn , bash and swear to get it stripped. I changed my steering relay last year and it made a huge difference.
 
Changing the bushes got rid of the knocks and klunks and hugely reduced the body roll but it was oiling the springs (soaking in diesel/oil mix then wrapping in Denso tape) that improved the ride. It reduced the sticktion before the springs started to do their job. This is on my LWB ex-mil with the mil chassis and springs. The one thing that is still an issue is speed bumps as they hit both front springs at the same time when the springs are not already flexing so you get the full force of any sticktion.
 
As regards fitting parabolics is there a torque setting for the shackle bolts as in the past I have always done them up really tight and thought I had a good ride but atm the new paras are just nipped up and they feel really soft and you can see the shackles moving when I bounce on the chassis but as soon as I tighten them up ever so slightly the springs go stiff and the shackled hardly move ( rolling chassis )
 
cornish rattler said:
As regards fitting parabolics is there a torque setting for the shackle bolts as in the past I have always done them up really tight and thought I had a good ride but atm the new paras are just nipped up and they feel really soft and you can see the shackles moving when I bounce on the chassis but as soon as I tighten them up ever so slightly the springs go stiff and the shackled hardly move ( rolling chassis )
Click to expand...
are shackles catching the spring, the should be tight up to the center bush tube, tightened once working load is on the springs, so as bush isnt under strain unless springs are working
 
Lube on my para springs made a significant difference... Old Procomp 2000 shocks still feel overdamped, new shocks coming, will report...
 
jamesmartin said:
are shackles catching the spring, the should be tight up to the center bush tube, tightened once working load is on the springs, so as bush isnt under strain unless springs are working[/QUOT
Click to expand...

No I did think of that, I'm not happy with them not being tight but I am amazed how soft they are like this and worried if the shackle bolts could slide back and fourth
 
cornish rattler said:
No I did think of that, I'm not happy with them not being tight but I am amazed how soft they are like this and worried if the shackle bolts could slide back and fourth
Click to expand...
there are supposed to be tight but one shackle should be threaded and tightening a nut up to that should make secure the bolt
 
I gave mine a good thrutch. I refrained from a thrutch and a hammer blow as this may be overkill. It looks like there are three sizes of bolts in the kit. I am sure they have a sequence if you know what your doing. If not like me just bang in the one that fits.
I'm sure they will ease as time goes by. I'm never in much of a rush.
 
cornish rattler said:
No I did think of that, I'm not happy with them not being tight but I am amazed how soft they are like this and worried if the shackle bolts could slide back and fourth
Click to expand...
Thats what made me change em. Bit of metal on metal clonking when cornering. Its only a quick job to nip them up once mobile.
Suck it and see.
 
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