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Depends which additional bits you have that are connected to it, just the shuttle valve on mine I think

Looks like they tap into end of seat runners , don’t know size.

Good to see you back on this and hopefully not far away now Easy mistake that anyone could make, I use converters online and this one looks well comprehensive https://www.norbar.com/Support/Calculators/Torque-Unit-Converter

Wow impressed by the work you have put in, it’s an effort for me to swap the brake shoes!

Fantastic looking landy either way

https://shielderchassis.com/collections/all-land-rover-bulkheads Have a look at the S2 bulkheads on here, then the series 3

That is a bit weird as the S2 and S2a has those flat outer bits and as said you also have the wider hinges just inside them , don’t know

lovely looking lightweight

Could it have overloaded bearing at other end too

Good eyes have you!

@tottot So if I understand you The axis of the blue line not parallel to the red line due to bearing fail (I’ve exaggerated this alignment) Or do you mean where red circle the high gear should be more in line with intermediate gear as it’s a bit offset , it does look like edge of intermediate...

So you are stuck in low ratio, 4x4 with high revs and low speed and pulling red lever back does nothing Did the yellow knob work ok when you pressed it down it went into high ratio 4 wheel drive Is the knob up or down and does that release when red lever pulled back

Best to strip down the transfer box and see what the issue is before buying new parts , if you do buy parts buy quality bits if you can using the correct part numbers There should be stamped numbers on it telling you which gearbox suffix you have

You can check for end float on the oil pump gears and then buy new gears if reqd, but aftermarket pumps will not have the quality of the genuine pump which you will be better off keeping imo https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/blogs/news/article-2-25petrolenginerebuild

What to the main bearing shells look like , can you post some pics of them, on mine on some the white metal had started to wear off showing the copper , bearings cheap so good one to replace , assume crank bearing surface ok Turner engineering good for parts also they have some rebuild articles...

Well don’t forget about and leave us hanging, let us know if you find it😀

I could just feel a small ridge and I think that equated to less than 10 thou oversize on mine but I still got a rebore. But if you don’t want to I would measure what you can , completely strip down and check for visible wear , you can always do the minimum , put it back together , pressure test...

You can measure the piston clearance in bore also as in the data sheet

Can you see or feel with your fingernail a ridge at the top of piston where the top piston ring stops this will show wear in bore Have you tried putting the piston rings in bore using a piston to keep it square and placing it towards the bottom of cylinder ( no wear here) then measuring gap...

This might be a good place to ask https://www.facebook.com/groups/landroverseries123cyprus/