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Yes, you only have to wedge it in there. It needs to be cut to a length to sit on the frame tubes each side - but not too long to go into the gap in the trim panel where the seat sits when "up".

The Avenger4x4 adverts appear to have everything & are both the non-aircon versions. if you look at the photos with the long black pressed steel bracket (non air-con version), you can see the different shape vs the one in the video which was "stepped" & had the extra upright section to fasten...

On the video, it shows the mounting "frame" /bracket for the LH seat being installed. The bracket he shows is specifically for variants with rear aircon - which possible, but rare in the Uk. If used it pushes ths lh seat quite a lot further towards the centre of the car & makes the whole load...

paddocks are usually a very good price, but some tyre suppliers might to a better deal with tyres Update : PS I'm not sure if there are any different offsets for D2 modulars. Most suppliers don't understand if the they have 25mm increased offset (above the standard D2 57mm) or 25mm actual offset...

Not sure what engine you have and therefore the difficulty / cost of replacing the PAS pump. Ideally you need the pump output tested to confirm the fault diagnosis & ensure they aren't replacing a good pump - otherwise you could potentially waste £300 plus. A good garage will have the test...

I'm afraid "fine when cold" is a common faulty pump symptom. When its cold the fluid viscosity is higher so its easier for the pump to generate higher pressure. Once the engine and pump have been operating even briefly, the oil viscosity reduces & eg if there are internal leaks within the pump...

More likely the PAS pump is worn out / faulty. What mileage has the car got? I had to change the pump on our RR mk3 at 125,000, but obviously many last much longer.

As prep, install 1 clip in the hole in the side of the rear body panel & the other 2 in the front facing holes of the bumperette. Then line up the 2 rear clips with the 2 body holes while sliding the bumperette internal side slot over the head of the side clip. Give the rear face of the...

I think I remember that I fitted the bkt to the bush first after rotating the bush so that the bracket was lined up for the tab to be pushed the slot. It's then a matter of pushing the bracket onto the retaining stud while rotating it around the ARB.

You may need to provide a photo for us to be sure of what you mean, but it should be "just" a matter of prising the relevant bit of the ARB forwards or backwards to get it lined up.

Discovery 2 rear crossmembers only have 2 captive nuts built in for tow bar fastening (see the picture here...

If you're that destructive, what about public transport instead - lol

I've got GG AT3s on our D2 & they're fairly quiet.

+1 on that. air compresses to give a soft pedal, it won't cause a pedal to creep to the floor.

After you've bought the flaring tool & pipe, make a few practice flares on short lengths of pipe to get the hang of it before you commit to flaring the end of the pipe you've spent time bending round the various "obstacles" under the car & then cut to the optimum length. It's never good to wreck...

There's enough access space to weld all the way round the junction of the half chassis & alignment is easy using the existing front half ( actually more like 2/3 rds) & the rear body to chassis mounts. I agree that cost estimates for parts for both options look low. 1400mm chassis section is...

There's a 10mm steel & rubber packer / isolator used on the top of the front springs. It has rubber castellations on the inside that locate on the spring support on the chassis. If you grind the castellations off you can locate an extra isolator over the 1st. I've done it ours to fine tune ride...

Check your rear brakes are working correctly. If they're not, your fronts will be doing far more work than they're designed for & will overheat. If your fronts needed overhauling, I'm sure the rears will too as they usually deteriorate faster.

Should do - but beware the really extreme mud tyres eg Insa Turbo Extreme K2 & similar from other makes - as the tread is likely to be wider at the full tyre diameter , whereas more road biased / less extreme tyres are usually wider somewhere lower in the sidewall. As an aside, are you aware...

What wheels have you got currently, are they suitable for 235 wide tyres ? If not, it might be cheaper to buy new wheels than spacers - although you only need spacers for the front. You won't need extended studs & you won't find much if any choice of spacer width - as far as I'm aware there are...