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You can buy lengths of different diameter nitrile rubber, cut to length and superglue together. Sounds sketchy but works perfectly. I've also got various thicknesses of nitrile rubber sheet.

Yes, those seals are pretty important! Buy new or make your own, don't use silicone.

I honestly have no idea, try calling anyone who has one in stock - although that's going to a challenge I'd guess. If you're hung up on new, consider that anything lurking on a shelf will almost certainly have been made in the same decade as yours, and the steel exactly the same day as the Big Bang.

You sure it's not just a sticky buildup of dirt, sweat and grease? Mine was, came up lovely with a clean and Meguiars Black stuff.

Interesting problem - you're not supposed to lose them! Put a wanted in the ad section, I'm sure someone will have a spare.

I've downloaded an app called Dragger that's supposed to measure acceleration. I'll have a play tomorrow/Thursday but I've got a feeling that the handbrake (only needs to hold a car on a 1 in 6 slope) isn't much more effective than changing down through the gears on a petrol engine.

I've removed/fitted 12, never broken one. Still got a weep from one cap on the Lightweight. Honestly, read the owner's manuals. No mention of not using the handbrake on the move. That came in with the centre diff. Then answer this. Can you fully engage the handbrake and drive off in first...

Sorry, I assumed it was the same carb as the S3 has, and yes, you've found the right picture!

#2 here. Sneaky isn't it?

I'm quite good at Physics.

Also - you know there's a secret filter at the carb union? That one got me.

I'm afraid I need to be convinced that any LR drum brake can produce more torque than the engine.

I've read the owners handbooks for the SI and II and there is nothing in them about using the handbrake in motion, can't find an SIII handbook, but can't see why it would be different. A well adjusted brake on a Series is unlikely to put as much stress on the downstream transmission as the...

Quieter with no roof or door tops, soft top is a lot better than hard. Plus one on petrol. I'll trump ear defenders with my noise-cancelling headphones.

That's the one, I've bought a few things from him, good seller.

Anyone got a spare hook and trailer electrical connection? Steve in Ukraine had his nicked years ago but hadn't needed it until now.

I think @sprie's only got one side of it. There's also supposed to be a bit of vac formed plastic that covers the join at the front.

I don't suppose it was a coincidence that you chose where to earth your bulb and meter was a bit dodgy itself? If not I'd go with the heating up a bad connection because I don't think there's a fuse protection on your car. It might be worth taking apart the connections and having a look before...

It's a reasonably easy job. With a manual and LZ on hand you may be able to do it in an afternoon. (The 'may' is because the head might need skimming. Mine didn't, you may be equally fortunate).

Brake cleaner and blue paper towels?