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If the Lp pump runs OK you need to check for possible pressure loss, do an injector leak off test with engine cranking and injectors disconnected and report back.

that's fine as long as the pump hasn't ever been removed without locking it.

For fuel to drain it would have to be replaced by an ingress of air and would happen whatever revs you shut off the engine. Have you checked cam and FIP belts and pump timing? It seems more likely that shutting off at high rpm is trapping fuel in the timing device which is countering...

completely agree, there is an issue with uneven braking effort and all moving parts need to be rechecked. bare in mind that the wheel receiving the most braking effort tends to move toward the centre line of the car.

Warm engine........warm, thinner fuel passes seal easier......less pressure in common rail for injection. As above, do leak test first and go from there.

there might not be anything wrong, night time temps are still low enough for it to come on unless your in the south east

Part of the issue is that people with a Freelander problem look for the Freelander forum (probably via google) and there is no link here to guide them to FAQs. Most won't look any further and have no idea of the whole LZ site and the other specific forums. IINM use of the search box on the...

:D common rail system...... 1 injector leaking can easily mean a non start

Does the fan work on any speed or is it completely dead? If it has worked intermittently check the heater fan wiring in the right hand footwell, there's a connection that can be disturbed by feet

The chassis can be checked with a prybar between subframe and chassis by right front mounting bolt. Chassis was updated from 2A219766. Spanner check all subframe and suspension/link bar bolts and diff mounts. You mention ird change in first post, do you mean VCU? VCU will be hotter and...

search........ http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-injector-pump-leak-96434.html

What year? early models suffered from cracked chassis around the front right mounting for the rear subframe. It usually only gives a single click/clunk when going on and off load or direction though.

Mmm that will explain why you could turn the camshaft as no 1 piston probably wasn't at tdc when the timing pin was in. I wouldn't say a broken crank is unheard of on these but don't think it's that common either. There's a new Rover 75 crank on ebay, don't know if there are differences but...

Can of petrol..... :pop2:

walking boots

because the injectors have to be able to deliver the precisely calculated quantities required for the temperature, speed and load conditions imposed on the engine. when tested they may deliver correctly at low and max needle lift but be out of range in between.

Cold be a few things then depending on its previous running condition and what you may of disturbed. Is there ant smoke emitted from exhaust when cranking indicating that fuel is being injected? any issues with crank sensor or its wiring? adequate fuel pressure?

If it runs OK on the easy start then it could be the cam sensor at fault.....

Your saying "kept above 2000rpm it's fine", if it tows fine and pulls hard at high revs then it isn't the low pressure pump since it is able to keep up with high demand. At 97k it's very likely to be injectors.

Big mistake buying a car that's been smoked in. Masking the odour with 'air fresheners' might help but that nicotine smell will take ages to fade if ever. It gets into the fabric of the car, theres no substitute for a good scrub with soap and water and a wet vac. Seats, all plastics, glass...