Thanks for provoking me into taking the heat shield off and wrestling with the little bu**er, now moves full range with finger tips and snaps shut luvverly......rod actuator off and wire brushed and cold galv to derust it.
Didn't have time to tinker with number of threads, but with new inter...
Check out the DVLA website....but istr the plate is supposed to be reflective and conforming size and letters and placed on the vertical front of the vehicle - not sure the vents on the screen count.... but who's checking?? Cheers, A
Moving to the left (whether in Lo Hi or Neutral) should be engaging the diff lock - NOT for normal road driving at all, it will do damage to the drive shafts etc, and be a pig to handle. Hi range and NO diff lock (i.e. keep stick to the right) for normal use. If it moves 'quite freely' left...
It took two years!!!? Awesome stamina, but very glad you found it, and always good to file away these discovered fixes for when mine does it, as it probably will some time.....! Nice one, A
Those lovely people at the European Commission made rules that require vehicle manufacturers (if asked) to leave the component supplier's brand on the part in the box - of course that could all change over the next 2 years or so........(I doubt it....).
So we can see who made the part - can't...
I had 'help' removing the head on mine, and that involved piling all the lash adjusters into a plastic cup (tho covered in oil) - so no idea which was bedded to which cam etc. Def noisier on rebuild, but then that AMC head is so much more beefy in places I suspect it is noisier full stop...
That's the join that needs 'rolled' high temp silicon-type sealant, which I did when replacing the head, and it pee's oil (from the front in my case) like its going out of fashion..... was fine for a year or so, getting worse by the month now, and I'll be well chuffed if I have to dismantle...
Permanent bruise/chafe on the webbing, but never managed to actually split one - top work! Oh, and countless pairs of jeans with belt loops (and usually lump of surrounding denim) ripped out......probably slightly more prone having a posterior the size of a small country....... oops...... Cheers, A
Oil filter is on the engine block to the left of and behind (from the photo viewpoint) the shiny bit to the left of the big rusty thing to use your parlance ;-)
Over the many years I've been changing mine I have yet to find a way of not spilling oil everywhere wriggling it out of its hidey hole...
They swapped to clear lenses coz it looks more 'cool' apparently.
You can always swap back if you want, the amber lenses are always around on fleabay or from the usual suspects (istr those amber lamps can be a lot more pricey?) , but need to do matching pairs....!! Cheers, A
You can see the bolt and spacer holding the frame down 6 inches in front of the 'hinge' bolt.........so I guess if you undo that it would still fold up with a few days soaking in 3in1....., but a bit of a faff just to increase the load space if temporary.... A
I was going to ask if you'd knocked back the stake washer thingy....... ;-)
I managed to weld a bearing onto the stub axle a few years back with just a couple of odd 'squeaks' while driving along, your sound effects sound about right for at least the bearing if not the stub axle too.... Mine...
You can go off people ...... how do you do that good a job in a 'bit of spare time.....'? (I managed to talk my 16yo out of that film, but then its not her birthday - phew....) A
Used VWP for rear worklight switches and relays, very good service and prices seem fine. If only I'd got round to wiring it in 2 years later I could tell you how well they work in action of course.....doh! A
I don't post very often, but get a lot of help and info off here.
Wanted to say how I always like to see an update on your 110 thread Nick - the side-tracks away from the refurb are always interesting/amusing, and a great positive take on life - keep up the good work!!
Glad the bruises are...