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Gibson’s Autos in Cumnock do lots of chassis swaps and are good lads. I’ve just finished doing mine, took me about 12-14 days in all spread over about five weeks - mostly weekends with the odd extra day on bank hols etc. Did it on my own, lifted the body off in one using a block & tackle off a...

I got the last set from EAC Parts. Their web shop is Shop4autoparts.

Who supplied your stub axles? The ones I’ve bought have always come with the seal/bush pre-installed.

If the flange is the same, yes.

Used Valeo in mine a few times with no issues. Always go for the 130-spec friction plate. Ashcroft do a kit with a new release bearing. Last one had very little wear after 80,000 miles - only changed it as I had the engine and box apart.

Don’t forget your tachograph ;) “No Mr Nice DVSA man, I’m not at work - just doing a favour for a friend...” On a serious note, and notwithstanding the above, it probably won’t cost much more to just do your trailer test than it will cost to transport this item.

Your VIN will fall after the range specified for that tank, I think you need this one: http://www.paddockspares.com/wfe000190-fuel-tank-110-130-range-rover-classic.html

Generally speaking, there are no vehicular public rights of way in Scotland.

The doors were changed in 2005, so 11 years before the end of production. The internal door plates are different, however they can be adapted to fit the new doors by making a small bracket, if I recall correctly there’s only one or to mounting points which differ. The rest are the same. However...

It’s a damper for the hydraulic circuit - fitted to Discos.

If the injector washers are gone then definitely change them ASAP as it will damage the head. But a video of then engine noise will potentially help folk pinpoint it for you.

I'd be more concerned with the state of your wheel bearings looking at those photos. You’ve had water in there at some point, so worth checking them. A tiny bit of play in several components can add up to a lot of slack, especially in the front axle where you have more splines joints in the system.

Never seen them on the lower swivel pin and they don’t appear in the parts book. There is a plate with a tab that mounts the brake shield though. Drop arm has one yes, I was referring to the swivels specifically.

Think locking tabs were a Series thing, never seen any on a 90/110/Defender. If they were then it was only very early vehicles.

I had to trim the spigot of the new outrigger slightly to get it to fit. And used a die grinder to clean up the inside of the hole so it would fit in. Took a fair bit of hammering to get in though, but the benefit was that it was pretty solid even before I then welded right around it.

Surely the captive nuts are on the plates riveted to the tub? Unless you’ve got a Td5 or later tub, in which case you need the later type of crossmember mounting rail which has the captive nuts on it instead.

Sent you a PM.

Or fix the heater?

Many people omit the brake shields, this will cause the rear brakes to wear much faster than the fronts as they are exposed to a lot more dirt/grit in road spray. Especially if used on unsurfaced roads. I used to go through a set of rears in 4,000-5,000 miles. Refitted the shields and now...

A box section will still rot, fair enough maybe not as fast. If you’re concerned about corrosion then repair them and have them galvanised, that’s my plan for the ones on my 110.