Search results

Yes the front and rear booster nipples (oo err) are a pain to get to. Very frustrating design. I will test drive as soon as the battery is back to life.

Changed the brake fluid and it seems to be mostly successful. Used Mobil DOT4 and a Gunson pressure jobby. Other than not tightening the cap down and losing a load of new fluid to the driveway, the Gunson worked well. Cleaned it up from chassis rail and radius arm. Bled as per RAVE...

Pm'd you. Thanks again.

Hi Could be interested for spares. Can you check how much postage would be? Cheers

You mean fitting a new thermal switch, a piece of good quality gasket material and an upgraded bearing? :confused: The original bearing is simply terrible, no wonder these things fail the design itself is a reasonable one, ruined by a bodge job on the bearing design.

18 months and still running. :D

It has a Sanden TRS105 which seems to be a scroll compressor.

No, I need to re-charge it. I have not been running with the aircon on so hopefully I am ok as the clutch will not be engaged. Does the dual pressure switch inhibit the clutch engaging if there is no refrigerant? Thanks

So all I can guess is the fluid leak I had was in fact some of the SP10 oil that does mix with the refrigerant. On top of that there is another very small oil chamber that lubes the cylinders. If the two are not interlinked then I am not sure why it is making a noise after losing oil from the...

Just an update as I forgot to make one last month. New idler fitted, bloody noise still there. I am very sure it is coming from the AC compressor. When I stripped it all down (to do more than the belt etc) I took the compressor completely off so I could access the rocker gaskets etc. When I...

Well a possibly interesting update. I decided to take the stat off and test if it opens in a pan of boiling water. It does not open. Genuine Land Rover parts................... Hmmmmmm. Did this cause my overheat? Well I put the old stat on which is the original and is date stamped 95/96...

Update: Reclamped. Still leaks Bars leaks in as per their instructions to the dot. Let to idle for 20 mins, taken for a 20 minutes drive. Still leaks. The temp gauge comes up to half way and goes no higher. So I suspect the stat opens up, however the top hose is hot and firm, rad is a lot...

Yes it is all dry up there. This leak comes from around the solid plastic exit at the rad bottom and the lower rubber hose.

My WP, hoses and rad are all effectively new, rad being the oldest at 2.5 years. Coolant is changed every 2 years max. I got some Bars Leaks, 2 new clamps and some more antifreeze. I will try reclamping first, top up and cross fingers. If not the the Bars leaks goes in.

I thought Radweld and K seal etc were a big no no........ ?

Changed the lower hose now, still frigging leaking. I am going to have to take the rad out and take it to be pressure tested somewhere. Utter nightmare, sick and tired of it.:Cry:

I suspected that too. I will run it up again in he next day or so and have a look for leaks again. I am sure the coolant around the cowling was from the overflow/bleed hole that I disconnected for a moment to complete the air bleed. The coolant along the bottom of the rad seems to have come...

Right, now it has cooled I dried up where the fan has sprayed. The rad itself is bone dry along all the fins. Dried underneath again and re-clamped the lower hose, again as I could see a sign of seeping coolant. Fingers crossed, again.

I think i may have found my coolant leak. The radiator. It is only 3 years old. No signs of damage, no visible cracks top or bottom. I reverse flushed it, then filled with plain water. No leaks. left and monitored most of Saturday, no leaks consistently. Re-plumbed the thermostat and...

Another update. Fitted new hose. Back flushed heater matrix as advised. Lots of burping through the expansion tank. As the coolant got to the top I put the heater matrix hose back on and topped up with concentrated antifreeze to strengthen the mixture up again. Started up, ran about 2000...