JamesBB
Active Member
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- 761
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- Sandwich. Kent.
Yes it is all dry up there.
This leak comes from around the solid plastic exit at the rad bottom and the lower rubber hose.
Radiator leak
- Thread starter JamesBB
- Start date
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Yes it is all dry up there.
This leak comes from around the solid plastic exit at the rad bottom and the lower rubber hose.
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
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- south east london
JamesBB
Active Member
- Posts
- 761
- Location
- Sandwich. Kent.
Update:
Reclamped.
Still leaks
Bars leaks in as per their instructions to the dot. Let to idle for 20 mins, taken for a 20 minutes drive.
Still leaks.
The temp gauge comes up to half way and goes no higher. So I suspect the stat opens up, however the top hose is hot and firm, rad is a lot cooler all over.
Checked the stat. Hot on top, lower half is a lot cooler. Drips of coolant are cool, barely warm.
I am utterly confused. If the stat was not opening surely it would get very hot. If it was open then the rad should be hot.
I did reverse flush the read last week, there are no blockages in there.
Any ideas from the gurus?
Thanks in advance again.
Reclamped.
Still leaks
Bars leaks in as per their instructions to the dot. Let to idle for 20 mins, taken for a 20 minutes drive.
Still leaks.
The temp gauge comes up to half way and goes no higher. So I suspect the stat opens up, however the top hose is hot and firm, rad is a lot cooler all over.
Checked the stat. Hot on top, lower half is a lot cooler. Drips of coolant are cool, barely warm.
I am utterly confused. If the stat was not opening surely it would get very hot. If it was open then the rad should be hot.
I did reverse flush the read last week, there are no blockages in there.
Any ideas from the gurus?
Thanks in advance again.
JamesBB
Active Member
- Posts
- 761
- Location
- Sandwich. Kent.
Well a possibly interesting update.
I decided to take the stat off and test if it opens in a pan of boiling water.
It does not open. Genuine Land Rover parts................... Hmmmmmm.
Did this cause my overheat?
Well I put the old stat on which is the original and is date stamped 95/96.
The old stat failed open permanently. It cannot close, impossible due to failure. I drove with this on for over a year and all seems ok. The temp just about peak at the cross of the cold blue and normal white areas. Although there is heat inside, it is not overpowering like the the new (wont open) stat on.
The interesting thing is the leak has stopped. Nothing to do with the Bars Leak as I drained all that out and refilled.
Could it be that the permanently closed stat caused so much back pressure that the coolant was forced out at the join on the bottom hose?
I better return this stat.
I wonder if I have suffered any damage from the overheat if Land Rover will pay out for repairs.......?
Hmmmmmmmmmmm again
I decided to take the stat off and test if it opens in a pan of boiling water.
It does not open. Genuine Land Rover parts................... Hmmmmmm.
Did this cause my overheat?
Well I put the old stat on which is the original and is date stamped 95/96.
The old stat failed open permanently. It cannot close, impossible due to failure. I drove with this on for over a year and all seems ok. The temp just about peak at the cross of the cold blue and normal white areas. Although there is heat inside, it is not overpowering like the the new (wont open) stat on.
The interesting thing is the leak has stopped. Nothing to do with the Bars Leak as I drained all that out and refilled.
Could it be that the permanently closed stat caused so much back pressure that the coolant was forced out at the join on the bottom hose?
I better return this stat.
I wonder if I have suffered any damage from the overheat if Land Rover will pay out for repairs.......?
Hmmmmmmmmmmm again
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