Whining noise after belt change.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
JamesBB

JamesBB

Active Member
Posts
761
Location
Sandwich. Kent.
Hi All

Last month I replaced my serpentine belt, the tensioner and water pump.
All is running ok, except I have a whining noise now, seems to be coming from around the tensioner area, but hard to tell. Sounds like it is too tight now. Before it was all quiet.

The parts I used were all better quality parts from Dayco, Airtex etc. No Britpart.
Alternator and AC compressor are ok I am sure. Tomorrow I will have another look and listen.

Anybody experienced this before on a GEMS engine? 4.6 no LPG.
Cheers
 
JamesBB said:
Hi All

Last month I replaced my serpentine belt, the tensioner and water pump.
All is running ok, except I have a whining noise now, seems to be coming from around the tensioner area, but hard to tell. Sounds like it is too tight now. Before it was all quiet.

The parts I used were all better quality parts from Dayco, Airtex etc. No Britpart.
Alternator and AC compressor are ok I am sure. Tomorrow I will have another look and listen.

Anybody experienced this before on a GEMS engine? 4.6 no LPG.
Cheers
Click to expand...
A cockeyed pulley can do that, so I'd check to see if everything straight. And just because it's new, it doesn't mean that the pump or tensioner isn't wonkey.
 
I've seen these new belt tensioner actually finish a pump bearing ect with the new added tension on old bearings they just fail maybe have a look around at all the bearings your belts involved with.

Hope that helps

W
 
I had the same when i put a new Dayco belt on. It ended up being the idler pulley but threw the sound around & first thought it was the Alternator. I went for the metal type as OEM are plastic & can disintegrate.
 
martynv8 said:
I had the same when i put a new Dayco belt on. It ended up being the idler pulley but threw the sound around & first thought it was the Alternator. I went for the metal type as OEM are plastic & can disintegrate.
Click to expand...


That is my suspicion too. LH idler under the tensioner. At the moment I believe mine is plastic, so worth swapping for a metal one.

I think the alternator is ok as I completely removed it when I did the work (changed valley gasket too) and it spun without any alarming noises.
Same with the AC compressor (used 12v to engage the clutch while it was off), so I do not think it is that either. AC on or off makes no difference.

Will check more today.

Cheers
 
JamesBB said:
That is my suspicion too. LH idler under the tensioner. At the moment I believe mine is plastic, so worth swapping for a metal one.

I think the alternator is ok as I completely removed it when I did the work (changed valley gasket too) and it spun without any alarming noises.
Same with the AC compressor (used 12v to engage the clutch while it was off), so I do not think it is that either. AC on or off makes no difference.

Will check more today.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Hang on, I think I am looking at the wrong diagram.
The idler is the one on the tensioner, is that correct?
If so I need to find a metal one. I thought there was a LH and RH idler. The only part number I can find is ERR6702.

Over to RAVE.
 
This is the GEMS belt. The tensioner seems to be the only part ERR6439G, no separate idler on the LH. I have replaced that, so I am confused over the source of the noise.

Bosch/Thors seem to have the extra LH idler.
 

Attachments

  • SerpentineDiagB.jpg
    SerpentineDiagB.jpg
    37.6 KB · Views: 145
JamesBB said:
This is the GEMS belt. The tensioner seems to be the only part ERR6439G, no separate idler on the LH. I have replaced that, so I am confused over the source of the noise.

Bosch/Thors seem to have the extra LH idler.
Click to expand...

The part you have ringed in red is the tensioner. The idler is the small one on the right hand side of the picture. Just to the right of and above the crank pulley. This one http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ERR6702 or one of these http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=ERR6702&x=27&y=13 take your pick
 
Last edited:
wammers said:
The part you have ringed in red is the tensioner. The idler is the small one on the right hand side of the picture. Just to the right of and above the crank pulley. This one Roller Idler - Timing Belt - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk or one of these Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. take your pick
Click to expand...

Yes that is what I thought. Thanks.

I have actually narrowed the noise source down. I took an 18 inch long piece of timber and rested it on each component with a pulley to listen at the end. The only thing with an even similar whine is the AC compressor, but it makes no difference if the AC is on or off. However, that is probably because there is no gas in the system.

Some questions:
Am I correct in saying if there is no gas the clutch does not engage as the dual pressure switch stops it and this saves the bearings?
Would a re-gas fix it?
Or should i take it that the bearings are worn and I need to replace?

Maybe the new belt and tensioner has just shown up a fault that has been there for a long time.......

Cheers
 
JamesBB said:
Yes that is what I thought. Thanks.

I have actually narrowed the noise source down. I took an 18 inch long piece of timber and rested it on each component with a pulley to listen at the end. The only thing with an even similar whine is the AC compressor, but it makes no difference if the AC is on or off. However, that is probably because there is no gas in the system.

Some questions:
Am I correct in saying if there is no gas the clutch does not engage as the dual pressure switch stops it and this saves the bearings?
Would a re-gas fix it?
Or should i take it that the bearings are worn and I need to replace?

Maybe the new belt and tensioner has just shown up a fault that has been there for a long time.......

Cheers
Click to expand...

There is an idler bearing in the compressor clutch pulley that takes the rotation when the clutch is not engaged. When the clutch is engaged the bearings in the compressor take the rotation and the idler bearing in the pulley is still. So if you had a re gas and with the compressor engaged the noise goes away it's a safe bet it is the compressor pulley idler bearing that is your problem. If it is take it off pull the bearing read the numbers and get one from here. Simply Bearings Ltd ~ Oil Seals SKF FAG TIMKEN KOYO NTN NKE TRULOC Needle Rollers Taper Rollers Rod Ends Oil Filled Bushes Loose Balls O Rings Grease Plain Thrust

PS Or if you fancy find the feed wire to the magnetic clutch and feed 12 volts to it with the engine running see if the noise stops. Not for long though if there is no gas in. Moments only.
 
Last edited:
wammers said:
There is an idler bearing in the compressor clutch pulley that takes the rotation when the clutch is not engaged. When the clutch is engaged the bearings in the compressor take the rotation and the idler bearing in the pulley is still. So if you had a re gas and with the compressor engaged the noise goes away it's a safe bet it is the compressor pulley idler bearing that is your problem. If it is take it off pull the bearing read the numbers and get one from here. Simply Bearings Ltd ~ Oil Seals SKF FAG TIMKEN KOYO NTN NKE TRULOC Needle Rollers Taper Rollers Rod Ends Oil Filled Bushes Loose Balls O Rings Grease Plain Thrust

PS Or if you fancy find the feed wire to the magnetic clutch and feed 12 volts to it with the engine running see if the noise stops. Not for long though if there is no gas in. Moments only.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, I will investigate and update.
Cheers
 
Update.

Belt off and checked alignment, all seems fine.
Checked each pulley for noise and wobble. The idler under the steering pump sounds awful, spins freely, but a bit scratchy and rough.

With the engine running I engaged the AC clutch with 12v, and the noise does not change at all.

So it must be either the idler that is making all the noise, or the AC pump bearings are worn also. Could the noise of the idler travel through to the AC pump when listening via a length of wood? Cannot hear it on the PS pump, which is closer.

Cheers
 
JamesBB said:
Update.

Belt off and checked alignment, all seems fine.
Checked each pulley for noise and wobble. The idler under the steering pump sounds awful, spins freely, but a bit scratchy and rough.

With the engine running I engaged the AC clutch with 12v, and the noise does not change at all.

So it must be either the idler that is making all the noise, or the AC pump bearings are worn also. Could the noise of the idler travel through to the AC pump when listening via a length of wood? Cannot hear it on the PS pump, which is closer.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Will be the idler under the power steering pump as first suggested. They do go pretty often.
 
martynv8 said:
I had the same when i put a new Dayco belt on. It ended up being the idler pulley but threw the sound around & first thought it was the Alternator. I went for the metal type as OEM are plastic & can disintegrate.
Click to expand...

This. I replaced the tensioner first and then the pulley - solved all noises and whines :)
 
Just an update as I forgot to make one last month.
New idler fitted, bloody noise still there.

I am very sure it is coming from the AC compressor.

When I stripped it all down (to do more than the belt etc) I took the compressor completely off so I could access the rocker gaskets etc.
When I took it off it gave me the opportunity to change the O rings too, but as I turned it sideways some fluid leaked out of the holes, a very small amount - maybe 2 - 3 table spoons or so.

Could this be some compressor oil?
Checking Rave it uses 0.32 US pint of Sanden SP10.

I could "put" some back in via the holes it came from, but there also seems to be an oil plug.....

Could anybody advise on this please?

Found this for a Sanden compressor:
Compressor lubrication occurs as the oil which circulates with the refrigerant passes
through the compressor crankcase during operation. The Sanden SD series (not sure if LR uses this) compressor achieves optimal durability and cooling performance when oil circulates through the system at a ratio of 3.3% to 8% oil to refrigerant.
 
Last edited:
JamesBB said:
Just an update as I forgot to make one last month.
New idler fitted, bloody noise still there.

I am very sure it is coming from the AC compressor.

When I stripped it all down (to do more than the belt etc) I took the compressor completely off so I could access the rocker gaskets etc.
When I took it off it gave me the opportunity to change the O rings too, but as I turned it sideways some fluid leaked out of the holes, a very small amount - maybe 2 - 3 table spoons or so.

Could this be some compressor oil?
Checking Rave it uses 0.32 US pint of Sanden SP10.

I could "put" some back in via the holes it came from, but there also seems to be an oil plug.....

Could anybody advise on this please?

Found this for a Sanden compressor:
Compressor lubrication occurs as the oil which circulates with the refrigerant passes
through the compressor crankcase during operation. The Sanden SD series (not sure if LR uses this) compressor achieves optimal durability and cooling performance when oil circulates through the system at a ratio of 3.3% to 8% oil to refrigerant.
Click to expand...

as far as i know which aint much the lubricant is in the refridgerant when i had mine regassed they added lube to it the same time
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

JockHiltz
Serpentine belt and tensioner pulley
Replies
9
Views
492
JockHiltz
JockHiltz
C
Freelander 2 (LR2) A/C compressor clutch
Replies
1
Views
1K
Craig_mate
C
R
Sudden grinding/screeching noise from water pump
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
Red Barney
R
T
td5 engine power loss
Replies
9
Views
820
Brown
Brown
xDParis64
Freelander 1 Converting from wasted spark to distributor (or Visa Versa)
Replies
0
Views
491
xDParis64
xDParis64
Back
Top