Search results

Aye,did my drains first then ripped the lot out and sealed roof joints to body and no more leaks,sadly they all do it

My V8 is a manual and will crack 22-3 mpg on a run,17-18 round the houses locally,much less if driven like I stole it !!

Mine too,fixed the sunroofs and was not best pleased that water still ****ed in,sorted now though.

Your's may not be related but worth checking.

There was a recall for Discovery 2's regarding fuel leaks at the rear of vehicle,don't know if this helps you LAND ROVER Discovery Series , Diesel TD5 Recall - Possibility that the

Is that for a complete hub?,if so thats very cheap,hope its ok.

Sensor is available seperately but is a false economy really,often its the sealed hub bearing which is the problem in the first place If you want one try Paddock or Island 4x4 or similar

good luck with the welding,BUT practice aplenty first and not on the disco,when you can run a neatish weld then is the time to go hole filling/plating.

If the gauge is giving a reading when engine is cold there is a fault with either the sender unit,the gauge itself or possibly a poor engine to body earth,if you have access to diagnostic equipment it might pay to look at the live data readings and see what temp the ecu is seeing

Just done one today(not mine this time !),pretty obvious where the water was leaking between frames and roof so had the lot out and sikaflexed back in again !!

Mig for lightish jobs unless really powerful, arc welder for the heavy stuff as said

I agree with most of the above except for the economy improvement(well on a D3 anyway!)

Good luck with it,check the rear of the chassis and treat it if its good,

It comes off easily enough and electrics just unplug, you would obviously need to check that it operates correctly for it to be worth anything though

Mine has ACE and is an early 99model,mine has a single reservoir but twin caps,never seen one like you describe.

Have you driven it since clearing the codes?,abs light will stay on until past 5-8mph.

Did you disconnect the battery before changing the sensors?,if not the system will need recalibrating with hawkeye/nanocom or similar

Get some brake cleaner and give the Ace block a good clean and let it dry,then run the engine and see where the leak is,could just be one of the pipe seals although they are a bit of a pain to change and around 20 quid each

+1,seen many vehicles with a fully stamped book which have just had the lub service done and nowt else

Very nice indeed.