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They are just outside Maidstone BUT they don't allow any collections any more. It's really frustrating when your barber is at the end of their road, you're already there and they will only post the parts to you! Not got anything bad to say about them really but the frustration of it has made...

BMW would replace the block if it failed and that didn't have the issue so there must have been something wrong with the linings as the later/replacement ones were fine. I had a 996 C4S, they have their own special way of ruining the bore linings! Mine was fine (just to be clear) but I...

I own two L322s, my wife has a D4 and my brother is still driving the Sport we went halves on to turn a profit. Therefore I "technically own" 3.5 LRs. Absolutely NOT a brag, that's the realisation that I need to thin the herd before disaster strikes my wallet! (Again).

Have you swapped the ballasts from left to right? I'd give that a go also to see if the fault moves. @backinblack, that is some beautiful wiring right there! I can imagine the previous owner dusting his hands and congratulating himself on a job well done after that. You must have been...

I contacted the DVLA once about a plate that I wanted to buy as it was on my sister's first car (E68 FLY), doesn't mean anything really but it was pretty cool and I thought that as a family we might buy it for her as a gift if it was reasonably priced etc. Anyway, I knew that the little scrote...

Gtechniq C4 is the best stuff I've ever used for this. It's expensive but goes a long way. You need a bottle and a half roughly for a Mini so I'd guess about the same for a Freelander. This pic obviously was taken during application so you can see the difference. This picture was taken...

Car configuration file (I think). Basically the reference for it to know what is installed.

I just googled a fan clutch image. I think on our cars the fan is a viscous type with an electric motor in it to run when the A/C is on and that's part you are seeing there. Whatever happens I stand by my comments of not driving it if you have a load of play in that unit, if it fails it will...

That does sound like the compressor could be the culprit then if it's only providing 2/3 of what it needs. Does it run for a long time? I've not had this fault (yet) but I'm sure I've seen details on them overheating when they work so hard to get the pressure up. There's a rebuild kit...

I thought it was only the 3.0 that's had the bluetooth crankshaft, I have learned today (again).

It sounds like you're describing the viscous clutch. If that is wobbling I would stop driving the car as it will tear the water pump out. I've heard reports of them coming through the bonnet if they let go a high RPM too so yes, I'd suggest that is a big problem! Looks like this?

To remove the head unit, you will start at the sill plates and work towards it. I'm not joking either. Not actually that bad though.

Welcome, It's be good to see some pictures of your LR and get a bit of vague detail on your location etc. Nothing too accurate but it helps people to know if they are local to you or know of local support when you need a hand.

I found the other week that on a long drive, my AC was lacklustre especially compared to my 3.6l which has always been excellent in the AC department. It's cold but not properly cold so I've had my 'go to guy' out this afternoon to have a look. He weighed the gas that came out, it had 210g in...

That's the two reasons I need to get rid of it. I can just about live with two of them but the lack of those lifting straps is a deal breaker! :)

Dropping to £5500

Is the reservoir valve the one in the compressor housing under the spare wheel? I've seen threads where the wring gets damaged by the spare wheel but it's in a sleeve so it's not obvious. It would be good if we had the code with the text (C-xxx) to narrow the field a bit but Autel may not give...

It's nice when people do as it helps people when others are searching through the threads if they have the same issue. It's really irritating when people fix their issue with help and don't come back to say it's done, how will anyone know what the fix was?

It's not supposed to be that tight. They are particularly poorly made (or at least mine were) so I figure the decent quality stainless bolts are less likely to seize into the alloy and should come undone. M6 into alloy should only be about 6-8Nm usually anyway which means they should never...

G-67 is the one. I bought this one, not the very cheapest on eBay (although probably the exact same unit as the very cheapest) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152816114742 I'd suggest buying a new set of bolts for it too. I ordered a few M6 x16mm countersunk head stainless ones to replace mine...