L322 Fixed! - P0046 - Where is the boost control solenoid?

I've mentioned recently that I've "treated myself" to a 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue to replace my fully mechanically sorted 2010 3.6 TDV8 Vogue. Perhaps not the biggest of upgrades or changes but I really wanted the 4.4, 8 speed and an ivory trim, all of which this car has. It has also only covered 88k miles and is essentially a very nice car that will in time be a fully sorted late model L322 and that's my goal. I didn't have budget for a really nice late model with a dealer warranty so I did what any Landyzone member would do and purchased a broken one. Smart eh?

Anyway, I'm working through a few issues, my main one is a boost issue for this week. I will check for leaks of course and I have taken off the donut manifold, cleaned the EGR, inspected all the rubbers etc. which all appears fine. I'm fairly sure that it's not an air leak issue as I get a couple of codes immediately:

P0046-77 (2F) Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid - circuit range/performance - Mechanical failure - commanded position is not reachable
P0045-13 (2F) Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid circuit/open - General electrical failure - circuit open

The first one, P0046 has been there all of the time I've owned the car (10 days roughly) but P0045 is new, last night to be exact. The logical part of my brain (not the part in control of purchasing Land Rovers) suggests that these two go hand in hand and the boost issues I am seeing are likely caused by these.

It is worth mentioning that there is evidence of rodent damage under the bonnet, some of the foam is chewed and a couple of wires to the MAF on the secondary air box have been repaired as well as a few other bits of tape and connectors can be seen around the engine bay. I will work through all of this in time to properly solder and heat shrink the wires. My concern is that there could be other damage to wiring that hasn't been found.

I need to locate the boost control solenoid and that's what I'm after the help with. I know there is a changeover valve for the secondary turbo but I believe that the primary has an electronic actuator on it too. Can any of you confirm this?

In the past I have paid for a Topix subscription and downloaded the full manual for the 3.6 and the wife's D4 but I haven't done this one yet as I've not had time or the inclination to sit for hours organising PDFs so if any of you would be kind enough to support my laziness and just tell me, I'd be most grateful.

Also, please let me have your thoughts and experiences on these engines. On the whole, I am over the moon with the car and am loving the difference between the 3.6 and 4.4 as it has far exceeded my expectations. I really hope I don't need to fit a replacement turbo. Cost aside, it's the fitting that bothers me most.

Do you have the full fault code?
From what I can make out that code mainly refers to the VGT actuation, and I could only find reference to the ECM controlling it

J

Thanks Jon, I thought you might have the info I needed .

P0045-13 (2F) Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid circuit/open - General electrical failure - circuit open
P0046-77 (6C) Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid - circuit range/performance - Mechanical failure - commanded position is not reachable

From looking at the the PDF you uploaded it must be the one on the actual turbo itself, which is rather unsettling if it's not a wiring fault leading to it. Do you have. diagram of which side has the primary turbo with the electronic VGT actuator? If I'm correct in assuming there is only one with that on it..?

It feels as though that is the issue and if it can't change the angle of the blades as required that would immediately cause the Restricted Performance.

I was getting P0046 beforehand so it could be a chewed wire that had high resistance and has now failed completely (he says clutching at straws). We know where this is heading don't we? Can't wait!

Hows this does it explain enough for you, do you need wiring too?

J

If you have wiring that would be really helpful as I am praying that's where the issue is. There is some definite rodent damage on the RHS above the head and wiring that's been repaired there so I feel that's a free and easy check to do. Continuity is a good start if you know the colours you're working with.

That PDF is really helpful too as, I'm not sure why but I had it in my head that the LH turbo was the primary and I see I was wrong about that but it does help to explain why the secondary airbox has so much oil in it, this car has only really done short runs and barely been worked I think so it's got quite the accumulation of oil in it. At some point I think it will be beneficial to remove the changeover valve and clean that out. One thing at a time eh?

I need to psych myself up for a late night with a Topix subscription here very soon. For anyone that is considering it, there's an art to doing it quickly and accurately but it's well worth the £50 (or whatever it is) for a 24h subscription, I just factor that into the purchase of the vehicle myself.

Blob said:

I need to psych myself up for a late night with a Topix subscription here very soon. For anyone that is considering it, there's an art to doing it quickly and accurately but it's well worth the £50 (or whatever it is) for a 24h subscription, I just factor that into the purchase of the vehicle myself.

Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more.

Quick look in my files revealed this.

J

Small update, after waaaay too much procrastinating, I finally jacked the car up last night, removed the wheel to and found that the boost control solenoid is actually quite easy to get to. In my state of gratified astonishment I then went about removing the circlip that holds the actuator rod to see if the linkage was seized and it wasn't at all. I've inspected all of the wiring that I can see to find no damage at all.

Although LR call it a solenoid, it definitely isn't as it is 5 wire with a multi position and feeds info back to the ECM, I'd say it was a stepper motor or actuator but that's just my opinion.

As it looks as though it can be removed without the need to remove the turbo I wondered if I might be able to gamble on a secondhand unit and simply remove the actuator to test the wiring and maybe fit that. A quick search on eBay revealed that these parts are readily available (aftermarket) for under £100. SO I've ordered one this morning to see if that fixes the issue. I hate "Parts Darts" normally but at that money, it has to be worth a punt. It has a 2 year warranty (set expectations low for cheap parts). It should arrive tomorrow so hopefully by Saturday evening I'll know if it's fixed or not.

Blob said:

Small update, after waaaay too much procrastinating, I finally jacked the car up last night, removed the wheel to and found that the boost control solenoid is actually quite easy to get to. In my state of gratified astonishment I then went about removing the circlip that holds the actuator rod to see if the linkage was seized and it wasn't at all. I've inspected all of the wiring that I can see to find no damage at all.

Although LR call it a solenoid, it definitely isn't as it is 5 wire with a multi position and feeds info back to the ECM, I'd say it was a stepper motor or actuator but that's just my opinion.

As it looks as though it can be removed without the need to remove the turbo I wondered if I might be able to gamble on a secondhand unit and simply remove the actuator to test the wiring and maybe fit that. A quick search on eBay revealed that these parts are readily available (aftermarket) for under £100. SO I've ordered one this morning to see if that fixes the issue. I hate "Parts Darts" normally but at that money, it has to be worth a punt. It has a 2 year warranty (set expectations low for cheap parts). It should arrive tomorrow so hopefully by Saturday evening I'll know if it's fixed or not.
View attachment 320251

Click to expand...

Normally cycling the ignition key will power it through a cycle, if it grinds or doesn't respond its poop.
Any faults to do with turbo positions not met are usually an internal issue with the motor and it's done with.
No need to replace the whole turbo unless it has been damaged.

What an unbelievable fight that was to remove! Pretty much spent the entire day on that job. Just in case anyone is wondering, the rubbish shallow bolts are a T31.25 I think. I tried several different T30 bits and they all fitted equally as badly as each other so yeah, you guessed it. 2 of the 3 stripped the heads out immediately meaning I have spent most of Saturday, breaking tools, going to Screwfix, buying things, finding they don't fit/won't work, going back to Screwfix etc.

Net result, Used a power file to absolutely butcher my way through the old unit so as not to damage the alloy plate that it's mounted to. 10 minutes after it came off, the new one was on and the car back on the floor. Faults for this are now gone and no, it still isn't running right! *sighs.


Drove up the road with the windows open and I swear I can hear the air rushing out from the nearside. Got about 1/2 mile and you guessed it, "Restricted Performance". Low boost pressure. Irritating but not the end of the world, I'll get there.

What is most odd is that as soon as it goes into limp, the whooshing noise goes from the left side. I don't think it is due to it not boosting as hard as I am barely touching the throttle and going along a flat road so I'm wondering it it's a waste gate issue or something to do with the changeover valve.

Plan is to try and pressurise the system next and get the soapy water out. As would be just perfect, my retractable airline blew out today too so that's another inconvenience to add to the saga. Perfect!

Still, only two faults logged now for the engine and then there's the Adaptive Dynamics to look at next so I won't be short of things to do for a while.

Blob said:

What an unbelievable fight that was to remove! Pretty much spent the entire day on that job. Just in case anyone is wondering, the rubbish shallow bolts are a T31.25 I think. I tried several different T30 bits and they all fitted equally as badly as each other so yeah, you guessed it. 2 of the 3 stripped the heads out immediately meaning I have spent most of Saturday, breaking tools, going to Screwfix, buying things, finding they don't fit/won't work, going back to Screwfix etc.

Net result, Used a power file to absolutely butcher my way through the old unit so as not to damage the alloy plate that it's mounted to. 10 minutes after it came off, the new one was on and the car back on the floor. Faults for this are now gone and no, it still isn't running right! *sighs.

Drove up the road with the windows open and I swear I can hear the air rushing out from the nearside. Got about 1/2 mile and you guessed it, "Restricted Performance". Low boost pressure. Irritating but not the end of the world, I'll get there.

What is most odd is that as soon as it goes into limp, the whooshing noise goes from the left side. I don't think it is due to it not boosting as hard as I am barely touching the throttle and going along a flat road so I'm wondering it it's a waste gate issue or something to do with the changeover valve.

Plan is to try and pressurise the system next and get the soapy water out. As would be just perfect, my retractable airline blew out today too so that's another inconvenience to add to the saga. Perfect!

Still, only two faults logged now for the engine and then there's the Adaptive Dynamics to look at next so I won't be short of things to do for a while.

Click to expand...

And you call that "treating yourself". I think you need a shrink

Datatek said:

And you call that "treating yourself". I think you need a shrink

Click to expand...

Its called Land Rover itis. Some times we all get a bit of it

Datatek said:

And you call that "treating yourself". I think you need a shrink

Click to expand...

I might need to look up the definition of "treating myself"

After the (let's call it) partial success of Saturday changing the actuator, I just couldn't shake the nagging feeling that I could hear the boost escaping, I was even thinking about it as I went to be; something to do with my age now I guess.

It occurred to me that I have only had this issue since I cleaned the donut and checked the rubbers last weekend so I MUST have caused it myself. I remember that when I was reassembling it in a hurry last week, my neighbour's 3 year old was helpfully filling the main boost hose with stones from his gravel driveway so I was a bit distracted but one of the short rubbers was an absolute fight to get on so I decided to look into that. Undid it and managed to break it free to turn it over and...

Hello, what are you doing there then?


Sorted that and went for a drive, hey presto, no more boost leaks. And, the Adaptive Dynamics fault has fixed itself too. Yeah, well, we'll just wait for that to reappear and I doubt it will be long but overall, what a result.

I gave the car a wash for good behaviour and then "treated myself" again to cleaning the block paving for several hours until I could take no more and drove to Sainsbury's for some reward beers.

Have to say, I do love this 4.4TDV8, it is amazing when working.

Blob said:

I might need to look up the definition of "treating myself"

After the (let's call it) partial success of Saturday changing the actuator, I just couldn't shake the nagging feeling that I could hear the boost escaping, I was even thinking about it as I went to be; something to do with my age now I guess.

It occurred to me that I have only had this issue since I cleaned the donut and checked the rubbers last weekend so I MUST have caused it myself. I remember that when I was reassembling it in a hurry last week, my neighbour's 3 year old was helpfully filling the main boost hose with stones from his gravel driveway so I was a bit distracted but one of the short rubbers was an absolute fight to get on so I decided to look into that. Undid it and managed to break it free to turn it over and...

Hello, what are you doing there then?

Sorted that and went for a drive, hey presto, no more boost leaks. And, the Adaptive Dynamics fault has fixed itself too. Yeah, well, we'll just wait for that to reappear and I doubt it will be long but overall, what a result.

I gave the car a wash for good behaviour and then "treated myself" again to cleaning the block paving for several hours until I could take no more and drove to Sainsbury's for some reward beers.

Have to say, I do love this 4.4TDV8, it is amazing when working.

Click to expand...

Result. One rule of thumb (as you know) is to always go back to the last thing you've done... Or left undone

Hello I have the same problem with my 4.4tdv8 do you know the code of the actuator you bought by any chance ?
Cheers

G-67 is the one.
I bought this one, not the very cheapest on eBay (although probably the exact same unit as the very cheapest)

I'd suggest buying a new set of bolts for it too. I ordered a few M6 x16mm countersunk head stainless ones to replace mine with. A word of warning is that the factory screws are notoriously shallow T30 Torx and strip out really easily, ask me how I know...!
Haven't actually fitted these to mine yet but it's on the list for the weekend https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360915450505?var=630271762025

Blob said:

G-67 is the one.
I bought this one, not the very cheapest on eBay (although probably the exact same unit as the very cheapest)

Pardon our interruption...

I'd suggest buying a new set of bolts for it too. I ordered a few M6 x16mm countersunk head stainless ones to replace mine with. A word of warning is that the factory screws are notoriously shallow T30 Torx and strip out really easily, ask me how I know...!
Haven't actually fitted these to mine yet but it's on the list for the weekend https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360915450505?var=630271762025

Click to expand...

I think the Torx might be less likely to round off than the Allen heads.

It's not supposed to be that tight. They are particularly poorly made (or at least mine were) so I figure the decent quality stainless bolts are less likely to seize into the alloy and should come undone. M6 into alloy should only be about 6-8Nm usually anyway which means they should never strip out, but, they did. Perhaps I was unlucky or it had been replaced before and that damage was already there. It seems to be quite a common issue with these actuators so I expect I'll be doing it again in years to come.

Blob said:

It's not supposed to be that tight. They are particularly poorly made (or at least mine were) so I figure the decent quality stainless bolts are less likely to seize into the alloy and should come undone. M6 into alloy should only be about 6-8Nm usually anyway which means they should never strip out, but, they did. Perhaps I was unlucky or it had been replaced before and that damage was already there. It seems to be quite a common issue with these actuators so I expect I'll be doing it again in years to come.

Click to expand...

It isn't so much the initial tightness as the heat distortion and the metal oxidising. Stainless will definitely help but the heat cycles will take their toll.