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Looks like you need some diagnostics. The car thinks/knows something is wrong - you need to find out what it thinks is the problem. If you have the codes read it will tell you the component or give you a pointer to it.

I think there is a low chance of getting low 30's round town, and not a cat in hell's chance of getting mid 30's. I'm going by the dash display though. When figures are that poor, you don't really want confirmation by doing the sums. :rolleyes: I do get low 30's out of my manual L Series F1...

Dunno if my 2010 TD4 is Euro 5, VinDecoderz.com says "Emission Directives - EU4 [053BM]", so I presume not... but it is an auto. The dash stubbornly tells me my avg fuel consumption (because it s not fuel economy!) is 11.3L/100km - that's 25mpg. The driving I do in it isn't conducive to good...

I found a place over here that said they would overhaul/repair the Wabco modulator. But the unit had to be sent to them for repair so I'd have been without the car for quite a while. It was also expensive. The local Landie spares place also said they could do it... but all they would do is...

Ahh, see you've found it.

I would imagine something has happened historically that caused the 4 sensors to fault/drop. That would have given a speed related error and faults for all 4 sensors.

Sounds like this... https://landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/baffling-to-me-front-half-shaft-axle-length-mystery-too-short-twice.394540/

I wonder what the view is that with a 50mm lift the shafts are going to be destroyed anyway, so you may as well go cheap. But will they make it to the parts store to pick up their replacements :oops:

Double sided tape. Although, I'd recommend you stick with the rubber mat. I did what you did and replaced the mat with drinks holder, but hardly used the holder and missed the mat for "putting stuff on" - so went back to the mat.

Its a while ago, but I don't think he cut wires, I think he jumped 2 pins or summat.

This is the chap I was talking to about the L Series ECUs. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/members/sail.135201/ He has posted a couple of times on here about ECUs/immobilier. He sounds very much like your long lost Polish twin. :D He is/was active on Polish Rover forum(s) and like you has...

http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/showthread.php/109219-Land-Rover-freelander-2-0TD-ecu-bosch-0-281-001-420-NEED-im*o-OFF

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-clone-and-l-series-ecu-dcu-heres-how.304394/

I seem to remember someone saying about replacing the EPROM in the one you are installing with the one from the old ECU. But then I also remember the Polish fella I was telling you about installing the F1 ECU in a 620 and 'hot wiring' it so that the immobiliser was, erm, immobilised. I'll see...

A quick google of the part number brings it up as a Mazda part - but looks to be for the Jatco. Most have 0 stock - but a couple of the US suppliers looked to have them available.

Oh dear, I feel for you and can totally relate to those frustrating tasks that, on the face of it, should be so simple! Its why the new ones have those plastic ties on. I'll have a look at mine later.

Must admit, it would probably take about 5 hours to clear enough space in the garage to get the car over the pit :oops:

We had a LDV Deliver9 camper returned to the yard the other day that had got stuck in a freedom camping site. Someone threw a rope around the end of the bumper to help pull them out, which they did. The end of the bumper is a bolt on steel tube that bends around the corner of the van, and it...

I'd definitely look at fixing the coolant loss first. Not just because it could (possibly has) damaged the engine, but because fixing that has a good chance of fixing the heating. My F1 (which has absolutely no relation to the F2) has a coolant loss. The heater will work briefly when the...

Looks like a lot of pfaffing around. You should hire a mini digger for a day and dig an inspection pit.