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Don;t forget the oil feed pipe at the back! Look for any cracks or signs that it's been blowing between cylinders. Worth tipping the head upside down and pouring some diesel or paraffin or WD40 into each port and seeing if the valves are leaking.

Some progress today - sorry no pictures. Rear tub now in - I had some bother with the floor not resting on the chassis rails properly. I suspect that this is more to do with the old chassis which had the rear cross member welded on at an angle and some sort of home-made brackets for the front...

You must leave some free play in the brake and clutch pedals or they will not fully release and you end up with the brakes sticking on. It's about 1.5mm play on the clutch can't remember on the brakes. 70mph is fine with an overdrive

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I'm debating whether to split my front wiring as I'm about to rewire the front end anyway...I would fuse them then.

- Where's it coming out? - How much oil is in there - it should be just up to the level of the holes in the inner circle in the bottom - after you've cleaned it out. I had mine overfill itself after it had sucked in a LOT of dust. Spluttery from tickover when warm or cold? Under load or just...

New trackrod ends on drag from box to relay, new tre on relay end of drag link. Brakes bled up successfully this time. Petrol tank in with a bit of pushing, shoving and hole widening...spotted that rear tub is not resting properly on supports - bugger, that will need sorting.

I'm not sure I'd just "fuse everything" a single fuse in the headlights circuit - if it blows, as is likely if a headlamp dies would leave you in the dark the small risk of fire is probably safer than the very likely risk of no lights whilst travelling at speed. To fuse properly you would...

Handbrake lever on now - a bit disconcerting how much the engine moves forward when I pull the handbrake on...maybe those soft engine mounts were a bit too soft!

Or the headlights, except for flash?!?!

Why is the horn unfused - I was thinking about this the other day as I shorted it to chassis by accident...

Got the engine back in this morning - after a lot of pushing and shoving and a near miss when the chain snapped - rated at two tonnes my arse! Tried driver's door and it lines up perfectly! Never did before - not sure if that is having the bulkhead and tub on straighter or the new shiny...

Tune yer petrol - much more fun!

I'm not sure which bit you mean - there are a few clamp and adpator plates in there. I suspect you want ... listed on LRDirect for £135! Best thing would be to take a picture of what you've got/not and / or look in the parts catalogue (Page 2E-02 on wards) to see if you can work out what you...

Weber CARBURETOR SET UP AND LEAN BEST IDLE ADJUSTMENT Wind the idle SPEED screw out until it is just touching the stop. stamp on the pedal a couple of times then wind back in 1 1/2 turns. The thing people rarely tell you: There is no point in trying to set up a carb properly unless it is...

If the rims are riveted together instead of welded then you should fit inner tubes. You can do that fine with most tubeless tyres so long as anything that might pop the inner tube is removed (large bits of mold overrun and stickers). You need to find a tyre shop that knows about Land Rovers -...

Is it fully, warmed up. i.e. have you taken it for a good hard run and done the carb adjustment then. If not then you are just in effect putting extra choke on. The odd burble is normal for these especially when cold or not fully warm and is just dribbles of condensation (petrol) being sucked...

I just poke a blunt screw driver down the hole and watch that to find ~TDC whilst watching the rockers. Both closed is the turn it should fire on. Daft question, but you need to set the gap when the points are fully open - whilst having a blonde moment I've set it to be open when it should be...

Check the steering arm to swivel at the bottom, I've had stretched pins in there that repeatedly worked loose but the lock tabs stopped them coming out completely. Also, as mentioned elsewhere check that the drums are seated correctly - that means taking them off and checking there's no crap...

One step forward two steps back this weekend. I plumbed in the brakes and tried to bleed them...snapping the final bleed nipple off in the process. Then snapped off an easyout in the bleed nipple so will need a new wheel cylinder both pipe and nipple rusted solid and when I got it out it was...