Air filter and heavy breathing
- Thread starter Jessop661
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dominicbeesley
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- Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire
- Where's it coming out?
- How much oil is in there - it should be just up to the level of the holes in the inner circle in the bottom - after you've cleaned it out. I had mine overfill itself after it had sucked in a LOT of dust.
Spluttery from tickover when warm or cold? Under load or just flicking the pedal out of gear? Could be a number of things
They can breathe a fair bit especially if well worn but if there's a lot of pressure then it does sound a bit like a head gasket. A borrow of a compression tester might be in order.
- How much oil is in there - it should be just up to the level of the holes in the inner circle in the bottom - after you've cleaned it out. I had mine overfill itself after it had sucked in a LOT of dust.
Spluttery from tickover when warm or cold? Under load or just flicking the pedal out of gear? Could be a number of things
They can breathe a fair bit especially if well worn but if there's a lot of pressure then it does sound a bit like a head gasket. A borrow of a compression tester might be in order.
dominicbeesley
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- Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire
Don;t forget the oil feed pipe at the back!
Look for any cracks or signs that it's been blowing between cylinders.
Worth tipping the head upside down and pouring some diesel or paraffin or WD40 into each port and seeing if the valves are leaking.
Look for any cracks or signs that it's been blowing between cylinders.
Worth tipping the head upside down and pouring some diesel or paraffin or WD40 into each port and seeing if the valves are leaking.
Thanks will try that on the ports the gasket looks pretty good so don't
Know if that is the prob will try put a pic on here of it
In the bores there is a lip at the top don't know if that should be there or not.
This is the first time I've taken an engine apart so still learning a lot ha
Know if that is the prob will try put a pic on here of it
In the bores there is a lip at the top don't know if that should be there or not.
This is the first time I've taken an engine apart so still learning a lot ha
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
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- Anglesey, North Wales
Is it a definite lip or caked on carbon?
I've seen a 5 bearing engine for sale out of a 90
Would it be worth getting? Will it fit in or would I need to change anything
Mines a 1975 the other engine is an 11h
Don't know what will work out cheaper to sort
My neighbour said head was passing on mine and exhaust valves not closing
Properly, and I've got a tiny lip on bores and one of them there is a deep scratch
So any help would be good thanks
Would it be worth getting? Will it fit in or would I need to change anything
Mines a 1975 the other engine is an 11h
Don't know what will work out cheaper to sort
My neighbour said head was passing on mine and exhaust valves not closing
Properly, and I've got a tiny lip on bores and one of them there is a deep scratch
So any help would be good thanks
dominicbeesley
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- Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire
Take some decent pictures with a camera in macro mode so we can have a look.
Depends how bad the lip/scratches are. A good modern composite gasket can mend a lot of problems.
A new set of valves and seals shouldn't cost much. Or you may be able to grind the ones already on there if they're not cracked or chipped.
Getting the head skimmed and unleaded valve seats in is a bit more expensive but still not mental. A proper skim to increase compression will improve efficiency unless you want to run on 3* petrol.
An engine swap is ok and I believe that the 2.5 fits in fairly easily but you will need to swap manifolds and exhausts or make a custom one. I think the 2.5 has the same engine mounting points. I'd budget a good bit of money for anciallaries and stuff that needs horsing around with to make it fit.
The thing to bear in mind with an engine swap is that the one you swap in is probably as knackered as the one you're taking out!
Depends how bad the lip/scratches are. A good modern composite gasket can mend a lot of problems.
A new set of valves and seals shouldn't cost much. Or you may be able to grind the ones already on there if they're not cracked or chipped.
Getting the head skimmed and unleaded valve seats in is a bit more expensive but still not mental. A proper skim to increase compression will improve efficiency unless you want to run on 3* petrol.
An engine swap is ok and I believe that the 2.5 fits in fairly easily but you will need to swap manifolds and exhausts or make a custom one. I think the 2.5 has the same engine mounting points. I'd budget a good bit of money for anciallaries and stuff that needs horsing around with to make it fit.
The thing to bear in mind with an engine swap is that the one you swap in is probably as knackered as the one you're taking out!
Not sure what solution for worn bores apart from re-co the block n pistons. That would be expensive. I have a 3 bearing n sent the head for a full re-con 5 years ago to Turner Engineering. Never looked back. Cost £400 but very satisfied. Looks like choice is between total re-con engine or as stated buy another engine. If u replace keep yet original engine; gives yea options in the future. Good luck.
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
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- Anglesey, North Wales
You can fit a 2.5 really easily. Drivers side mount needs moving. Move battery tray forward 2". Exhaust is standard series exhaust (in an 88" it is anyway)
