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I checked the shaft on my spare IRD today and it has a very small amount of movement when you wiggle the shaft, the leading edge of the shaft you should be able to file the grooves back in line so that it will mesh with the gearbox ok hope this helps

So, checked airbag resistance, all good, checked clock spring output, all good, checked continuity on wiring loom to ecu, all good, put back together.... yes, all good! Can only assume a connection somewhere was not 100% even though i have changed the airbag, clock spring and ecu. Just happy its...

I have a 2004 1.8 FL1 with a drivers airbag fault saying resistance too high, i have replaced the air bag and ecu so i suspect that the wires from the airbad to the ecu must be broken, can anyone confirm the wire colours for me please, on the 2001 TD4 they are yellow and red, but i would prefer...

He’s a local guy with a laptop, don’t know what software although thinking about it he couldn’t read the abs fault on my 2001 td4. If it’s not the ecu then I’ll take it to a mate who has a garage that has done work on my freelanders before and I know can read it, problem is he’s not so local...

Not showing up any faults still had them cleared anyway, that’s why he thinks it’s the ecu unit itself

Checked wires etc seats sensors ok I have a spare sensor to check them, checked air bags and steering wheel, only thing left is the ecu

I have recently purchased a cheap 2004 Petrol Freelander with a SRS fault on the dash, so my questions are 1 can you get to the SRS ecu without removing the blower unit etc 2 can you use any of the ecu units, or do they have to have the same model number 3 will disconnecting the battery for...

Have you tried spraying easystart into the air intake to eliminate injectors

Hi nodge, I still have that auto box you had the solenoid box from, arevyou near Aylesbury any time soon as I can drop it of there if you want to collect it at a later date

I'm in Newton Stewart SW Scotland, it still drives ok, idles slightly erratic, and has mot till june looking 350 for it

thinking of getting a replacement engine, but as i dont have a garage to work in i will probably just sell it for spares or repair

How do you know if its a G4, is it simply because its yellow? I have a yellow 2003 1.8 3 door with g4 stickers that I brought because I wanted the 17" wheels for my td4. Need to sell it now as cylinder 2 has low pressure so running rough.

Ive used j&R on several cars now from fiesta st, golf & freelander, you can buy direct or via ****ebay but they have all been good

Maybe because it sounds a lot more drastic and costly than it can be. New/recon injectors are expensive, sometimes the injectors are stuck and wont come out without a slide hammer tool, but the leak back test is cheap. I used 4 specimen bottles (free from the Dr's) a length of tube, I just bent...

When my os cv joint failed it knocked every time I was moving slowly on full left lock, complete driveshaft was only £40 from j&r driveshafts

I had the same fault with mine, done a leak back test and 2 injectors were shot, got a set from a rover 75, cleaned out all the diesel from air filter etc and it started first time and has never looked back.

Can you remove the undertray to get a battery charger on the alternater or starter to charge the battery enough to open the doors?

From memory I used an old 18mm multi sided socket and hammered it onto the locking nut, tightened all the other nuts really tight and used a breaker bar, then replaced them with standard nuts.

VED £265 Insurane £160 year, cheap insurance in Scotland :)