Freelander TD4 won't start

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Zoomydo

New Member
Posts
6
Location
Uk
Hi all, I purchased a Freelander TD4 as non runner and was told it had been diagnosed with an earth problem with Ec and it needed complete ECU kit. I have another donar Freelander I was going to break so swapped all Ecu kit from one car to the other. Still not firing in. Tried original ecu kit on donar car and it started. So not the ECU kit, The car will start on easystart but just stops as those vapours have been used. Any ideas please? Thanks in advance
 
Obvs no or not enough fuel. Check for fuel at lp pump then measure live data at hp pump when cranking. Check fault codes although these will be confused by swapping electrics around. Have you got matched ecu, immob and key chip otherwise wrong code goes to ecu on start command.
 
Hi, yes they are matched, they ran the donor car and the ECU kit from this one ran the donor car also, can hear the pump kicking in under wheel arch and can here a buzzing for about 40 secs when ignition turned on ( both cars do this) I have fuel up to the injectors as took pipe off next to injector and it ran very freely. Not got any kit for live data or Diagnostics so at the moment playing parts darts with bits from one car to the other and visa versa
 
Best guess on what you've said is that the fuel rail pressure is not high enough. Look for any leaks from the hp pump seals and check all connectors are clean and tight to hp pump. Failing that best to borrow some test kit. A swap of the hp pump is a lot of work if not needed!!
 
Not tried swapping any injectors yet, yes swapping the Hp pump would be a pain I could do without, I've swapped the fuel rail loom to Ecu, again it ran the donor car so won't be that
 
Why not start with the easy stuff first, like the fuel pressure regulator O rings. Those are 1000 times more likely to fail than the EDC, which is as far as I know, absolutely bomb proof.
 
The guy who I purchased it from runs a garage, they had an auto electrician out who diagnosed some earth issues on the Ecu so advised changing the complete ecu kit, customer decided to part chop it in as didn't fancy paying the parts and labour price so I had it as I had a running TD4 which needed too much spending on it for mot. Hence trying the ecu kit firstly as diagnosed.
 
It will be one of the injectors, or as nogde said the O-rings on the regulator you can either spend £5 on some new O-rings, then fit them to the regulator, or remove the regulator from your donor car and swap that over see how it goes, then report back.
 
Zoomydo said:
The guy who I purchased it from runs a garage, they had an auto electrician out who diagnosed some earth issues on the Ecu so advised changing the complete ecu kit, customer decided to part chop it in as didn't fancy paying the parts and labour price so I had it as I had a running TD4 which needed too much spending on it for mot. Hence trying the ecu kit firstly as diagnosed.
Click to expand...
You might still have earth issues but at least you know it isn't the ecu. Might be worth checking other earths before swapping more stuff.
Or more likely the leccy hadn't a clue and made up a fault that was so expensive to fix the car was written off and sold to you.
As my dear old dad used to say "If you can't fix it, make sure no one else can" :p
 
I'm seeing far too many garage 'that'll be something impossibly complex' stories at the moment. Anything over 10 years old and no one gives a monkeys!! Just spoken to someone who was quoted £250 for a F1 abs sensor fitted plus parts!! Hope the fuel 'o' rings sort this for you. Out of interest how did you change the immobiliser module as I think it is a dashboard out job.
 
Hi, yes changed immobiliser from behind dash, ecu, fob thing on clocks, black box from behind fusebox, all worked fine on donor car, today tried ignition switch and fuse box, everytime the donor car starts up but the car under repair just turns over or will run off easy start. Quick question will the car run on easy start if the crank sensor is faulty or will a faulty crank sensor stop starting it starting up completely? Still trying electrics hoping the auto electrician was half right, apparently he has a good reputation within the local trade.
 
It's 1000 times more likely to be the HP regulator O rings or a leaking injector.
I'm not going to repeat myself endlessly. :confused:
 
Hi Nodge, not disputing that but will need to order the parts so thought I'd try more electrical components first as I had read that ignition barrels and fuse boxes can cause issues too. Again going with electrical problem the auto electrician had mentioned. Perhaps you could advise me if the car would start with easy start if the crank sensor was knackered?
Are there two different regulator "o" ring kits? I've Probably read to much surrounding TD4 not starting and am getting confused. I've actually got another engine in the shed minus injectors but when I tried to remove the torq bolts to remove the regulator on the pump one came off but the inner one just rounded off. That was with having lots of room to get at it too. Perhaps I'm just too heavy handed sometimes but thank you for your input and I will be trying both the suggestions you have made.
 

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If it runs on easy start STOP changing electrical components!! You'll possibly add in new faults and end up going round and round in decreasing circles until the planet ceases to exist. Just saying......
 
I had the same fault with mine, done a leak back test and 2 injectors were shot, got a set from a rover 75, cleaned out all the diesel from air filter etc and it started first time and has never looked back.
 
deangermouse said:
I had the same fault with mine, done a leak back test and 2 injectors were shot, got a set from a rover 75, cleaned out all the diesel from air filter etc and it started first time and has never looked back.
Click to expand...
I suggested injectors in the 5th post in this thread. Not sure why he hasn't tried swapping them.
 
Maybe because it sounds a lot more drastic and costly than it can be. New/recon injectors are expensive, sometimes the injectors are stuck and wont come out without a slide hammer tool, but the leak back test is cheap. I used 4 specimen bottles (free from the Dr's) a length of tube, I just bent the tube over and cabke tied it for the blanks. Total cost of kit £2. When 2 of the bottles filled within a few seconds I new what the fault was, maybe they will be doing it at the weekend, time will tell. :)
 
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