Search results

I had aftermarket ones for a while in mine as said above they do have separate plugs so you can fully disconnect the seat base. I found that once I had sorted my heater out and had that working I no longer used the heated seats. They were never very good in my opinion (but that might have bene...

240k is not an immediate red flag. And a galv chassis is a big plus point. But everything else still needs a thorough checking over. Especially the bulkhead. But also the drive train components unless they have already been replaced.

Easily transferable to other vehicles so much more flexible than a permanent setup. See the same setup in the Picos de Europa with the series:

I could but I would then need to get the end floor panels and Probabaly a new tub floor as well. Whereas the extended panel covered all of those parts with holes. I have been and had a closer look this evening. And I think if I cut about 5mm off the front edge of the floor it will fit...

to remove the pads the only tools you need are things to remove the wheel (should have come with the vehicle) and then a set of pliers to remove the split pins from the brake calliper. the pads will then just slide out the top. It is not like a modern car where you need to remove the calliper.

Cannot specifically help with this but if the turbo is functioning and providing good power then leave well enough alone would be my advice Bushes are easy enough to check you just need to crawl underneath with a prybar/large screwdriver and give each bush a wiggle. If there is play it needs...

I use delphi lift pumps, but even them being a reputable brand they last somewhere between 2-5 years (i do about 25k a year). lesser brands can fail within weeks. The quality is no longer what is was and I carry a lift pump in the tool box with me as a spare which is testament to the current...

Lots of good brake pads have anti squeal shims fitted to the back of them which fit that description. Easiest diagnosis would be to pop the pad out and have a look at the back of it and post up some more pics. the lazy part of me would be saying if brakes are still good and the part rubbing is...

I know it does not work from a cash flow perspective but with the sort of sums of money you are talking about you could get a company to build a good one for you. Or look at one of the refurbishing companies to see what they have for sale currently, fairly sure a lot of them work to order as...

Many thanks for the pictures, that is I think what I probably should have gone for rather than the full extended piece as what you have is the same as the original construction.

I am beginning to think that would have been a better option and I did not do enough research of the available panels on YRM before purchasing the extended panel. But I have the extended panel now which has been painted ready to fit. trying to make it easy and replace with a single panel has in...

I know the original up stand goes under the floor. Did you have one made the same as the original or did you get it to go back the full length to the wheel boxes? If it was full length how did you deal with the getting the replacement part between the floor and the top hat.

That is definitely a driveway job, who told you otherwise. I have done all of that on my driveway as well as gearbox swaps etc. others on here have done full chassis changes on the driveway. Wheel bearings are probably one of the easiest jobs you can do. Drive shafts are easy once you have...

My plan was to use the holes for the c pillar bracket and the floor panel (currently being painted) as reference. I am trying to avoid fitting the new mid crossmember I have as the plan is to body swap to my current 110 once the rear body is refurbished so I have new chassis brackets etc to fit...

Looks like it should be the brake bias/shuttle valve to shut off supply if there is leak. but usually for the later ones the fronts would be plumbed through it as well.

buy yourself a set of old standard rims, condition unimportant, and if you get tubed ones people struggle to give them away so should be free. Then swap these onto the rover and drive it in. no pesky tyres to get in the way and 6-8 inches lower. If you are precious about the garage floor just...

Posted on its own thread here LINK but also posted in this thread to keep everything together for this rebuild LINK: EXTENDED 2ND ROW FOOTWELL TO REAR FLOOR UPSTAND, FRONT OF REAR TUB – LR DEFENDER 110 & SERIES 2/3 109″ (4 OR 5 DOOR). Linked above is the part. Has anyone fitted fitted one of...

LINK: EXTENDED 2ND ROW FOOTWELL TO REAR FLOOR UPSTAND, FRONT OF REAR TUB – LR DEFENDER 110 & SERIES 2/3 109″ (4 OR 5 DOOR). Linked above is the part. Has anyone fitted fitted one of these before? I am struggling to get everything to line up, all be it was the end of the day and it was getting...

I did start doing that but got very little response. It is just lots of little obscure things as it is the leftovers! I may do that again and also chuck some assorted job lots together as well.

Unfrotuantly not. But I have a ladder frame and flywheel housing? That’s my plan, to go through carefully and check what I actually have. But I think most is going to be destined for scrap unfortuantly.