300TDI, clutch slave cyl, pushrod. dimensions

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Chiltern

New Member
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1st time post here, although Land Rover owner some 45 years and approaching 4 score years myself.

Currently have a 30 year old 300TDi 90 with clutch problems. It is not only the landy with probs, I have some myself after surgery and I'm currently banned from getting underneath. However with time on my hands I've been reading about replacing the clutch slave cylinder and problems replacing the plastic clip should the pushrod come out. I've bought new master and slave cyls plus a plastic clip if needed.

So the question is, what is the diameter and length of the pushrod. With access to my lathe I thought that I might turn up a tool to replace the clip with everything in situ should it be needed.

Alan
 
Gently take the cylinder out and the push rod should stop in place. (Hold it with some long nose pliers if your worried)
Make sure the plunger on the cylinder is all the way back when bleeding. Bleed before attaching to gearbox. Slide back onto push rod
 
Hicap phill said:
Gently take the cylinder out and the push rod should stop in place. (Hold it with some long nose pliers if your worried)
Make sure the plunger on the cylinder is all the way back when bleeding. Bleed before attaching to gearbox. Slide back onto push rod
Click to expand...
Thank you for your quick reply. It might by a little while before I'm allowed 'down under' so to speak. I know that the clutch has been replaced before and the engine/box/transmission out 4 years ago when a new chassis fitted and I would not be surprised if the clip missing.

Just thought that I would have a go at making something while I have the time. prior preparation etc....
I've owned this one around 10 years, replaced a long time series III.

Alan
 
It’s about 8-10mm diameter unsure of the length. There is a dome with a point on the 1 end.
Iv not had to replace that clip on my motor & done 3 cyclinders in my long term ownership.

to replace this clip it would be done in the hole for the cylinder..your up for a challenge
 
Chiltern said:
Thank you for your quick reply. It might by a little while before I'm allowed 'down under' so to speak. I know that the clutch has been replaced before and the engine/box/transmission out 4 years ago when a new chassis fitted and I would not be surprised if the clip missing.

Just thought that I would have a go at making something while I have the time. prior preparation etc....
I've owned this one around 10 years, replaced a long time series III.

Alan
Click to expand...
Similar to hicap phill I have never actually managed to pull the clip and the rod out when replacing a slave. I do whoever I split the box from the engine as a precaution cable tie the clip in place just in case, but have never actually had it as an issue. Although I have not don't it I know other have from posts on here, it is possible to refit the clip through the slave cylinder hole with some long nose pliers, although it is fiddly.
 
Thank you both for the info. We had a very nice day here in south somerset yesterday (saturday) and I managed 10 minutes underneath. Following your instructions, I've been able to remove the slave cylinder and retained the pushrod (long nosed pliers used). Thankfully the plastic clip is in place (verified using a mirror). The slave has not been leaking, there is no gasket fitted but a steel shim 0.050in thick, normal?

diameter of pushrod 8mm, length approx 10.5 cm

Alan
 
Is the clutch not allowing you to select gears sometimes. Here in saffa land the clutch fork suffers from the pivot pin pushing through. I had to do mine recently and by the looks of it a bulge could be created before it actually pushes through on the pivot point and that would change the actual travel of the fork end for clutch disengagement

Hope this makes sense
 
miktdish said:
Yes, typically there is no gasket (there is nothing to leak) or shim.

What made you think the slave was leaking ?
You say you have 'clutch problems' - what are they exactly ?
Click to expand...
From time to time the pedal would stay down, this has been a problem before and I put it down to the pedal pivot stricking. I'd had this problem on my old series. Lubricating the pivot appeared to solve the problem for a time but recently it came back and the only way to get the pedal back would be to get your toe under it.

However, just before my surgery, I had been repairing the doors (rust in the bottom rail), when I came to reverse back, foot on clutch and I could not engage gears. Pumping the pedal gave engagement but as I reversed the clutch engaged with the pedal down and I had to quickly shut off! If the pedal was pushed right down, engine off, you could feel a creaking (sort of creak. creak creak) and I could (I think !), feel the pedal moving back slightly with each creak. The creak I believed came from the clutch housing, hence first thought the slave

To get it on the ramps to look at the slave, a few pumps for luck and it worked fine, just have no confidence in it. I'd have thought that if the pushrod had gone through the fork it would not work again.

Alan





So master cyl next... I've got it so may as well fit it.
 
It does sound like the fuid is leaking past the seal, typically this simply fills back into the pipe/system rather than out of the cylinder itself.
Often you will see (when bleeing through) that the fluid is black which is bits of rubber/plastic in the clear fluid and can also be caused by the alloy piston rubbing on the alloy body, again a sign that the seals are failing.
If these are the originals @ 30 years old then they have done well.
 
So from my post earlier re the hole in the fork possible - I went thru the replacing both master and slave cylinder rubber seals first before I saw it was the clutch fork hole problem

Several times on and off on the master as it's a difficult / tight fit

After using the same "new" seal kit on and off 2 or 3 times on the master it held for about a month before it too started with the same symptoms you mentioned above

So at a robot - traffic light to you mud island peoples - the D1 300 tdi would want to start moving forward after a 20 seconds of being depressed

New front rubber seal on the master and it's all good for the last month or so - and I didn't even have to bleed the system again

Might be the issue ?
 
Chiltern said:
From time to time the pedal would stay down, this has been a problem before and I put it down to the pedal pivot stricking. I'd had this problem on my old series. Lubricating the pivot appeared to solve the problem for a time but recently it came back and the only way to get the pedal back would be to get your toe under it.
Click to expand...
I know you mentioned other issues which sound hydraulic in this post but Depending on the style of clutch pedal you use when I had the issue of the pedal staying down it was a broken spring. If you have the later style single flat bar pedal (rather than the earlier pressed c channel pedal) the circular spring at the top can break but remains in place and looks intact at a glance. But when Brocken it then prevents the pedal coming back up on its own.
Spring in green below:

1727071402856.jpeg
 
Success gentlemen, new Slave and Master, plus hose, slave bled as advised then fitted (upside down first!, well it was raining hard and the brain waterlogged). In fact the whole task has been mostly in the rain, I'm lucky to have a very large garage, however the landy is too tall to fit through the doors. When I replaced the cyl head, we got it in by letting down all the tyres and loading it with coal, not recommended.

I've modified the master bracket by machining a hole and then tapping 1/2BSP. Fitted with a plug, the type that you get on a domestic radiator. Gives access with a small OD socket and made setting the pedal height a breeze. I was expecting the pedal pivot to have a tapped hole in it that I could fit a grease nipple to but it looked solid.

The master may well have been the original, Girling.

Again thank you all for the info and encouragement.

Alan
 

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Chiltern said:
Success gentlemen, new Slave and Master, plus hose, slave bled as advised then fitted (upside down first!, well it was raining hard and the brain waterlogged). In fact the whole task has been mostly in the rain, I'm lucky to have a very large garage, however the landy is too tall to fit through the doors. When I replaced the cyl head, we got it in by letting down all the tyres and loading it with coal, not recommended.

I've modified the master bracket by machining a hole and then tapping 1/2BSP. Fitted with a plug, the type that you get on a domestic radiator. Gives access with a small OD socket and made setting the pedal height a breeze. I was expecting the pedal pivot to have a tapped hole in it that I could fit a grease nipple to but it looked solid.

The master may well have been the original, Girling.

Again thank you all for the info and encouragement.

Alan
Click to expand...
Seems odd

Normally you can just remove the plate to access that
 
Chiltern said:
I'm lucky to have a very large garage, however the landy is too tall to fit through the doors.
Click to expand...
buy yourself a set of old standard rims, condition unimportant, and if you get tubed ones people struggle to give them away so should be free. Then swap these onto the rover and drive it in. no pesky tyres to get in the way and 6-8 inches lower. If you are precious about the garage floor just lay down some old carpet for the rim to drive on.
 
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