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seven years ago lol My version of the mount is still going strong. Its a microcat part, can be called up on any Dealers part catalogue, you can't buy the hydramount separately, its the full metal support, £150 was the price 7 years ago!!

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Have to disagree Essex!, this is a classic thread from Michielvdv, if all info is gathered into one thread............ all the more helpful to fixing the problem (assuming there are no dead links)

The block is a single chamber, as you pour in water, it should fill both sides. With the engine in-situ on level ground, its tilted forward and so appears coolant/water is higher on exhaust side

They are all interconnected, turn the cylinder head upside down so the valves are looking upwards, you'll need to block the two holes on the side on the head (inlet side) pour water into the coolant chambers, the rest of the chambers 1,2,3 4, should all slowly fill to the same level. I...

They all drone to some extent, more obvious with the seats down, your board is probably amplifying the noise a little. Plus when the pump rubber seal hardens, it allows more reverb through the floor/deck. Keep driving, start worrying when it doesn't hum ;)

Really :rolleyes:

No point in making work for yourself :)

hot wheels, those tyres are well phat!............ the FL would probably float on water

If you are considering the T-series conversion, you might to have a look at the pics below courtesy of G13SJC He fitted a T-series engine and bell housing to a 2wd Rover, using Freelander 1 gearbox internals. IIRC he said the IRD would not be easily matched to the T-series box, but...

Maybe something to do with the auto box?

If you're spinning the wheels at junctions, deliver the power more slowly. 1.8 k-series will spin exactly the same in the rover/MG 2wd models. Also it appears you have 195 R 15 tyres which also are pretty narrow for the power going to the front, I should know, have exactly the same...

Probably as the first and one of the founder members of Mondo mode* since 2001 My prop is absolutely fine. I find it increases fuel economy by some 20-25% and saves wear and tear on tyres and drivetrain (early diff ratio) Some say they don't notice a fuel saving, but there is a...

Probably drilled the rear quarter panels and some sort of captive nut in the shell, the bars are aluminium and do flex quite a bit, any extension will increase flexibility. They are also prone to splitting along the seam

Cant see the point in this mod? sort of defeats the purpose, the only reason for wrap around bars on the 3dr is to give support when the hardtop is removed..............nothing else. A waste of a perfectly good 3dr roof rack Nice ladder rack though ;)

don't worry the patience wears thin soon enough;) this thread is still on track :) Its a mod that saves time, simple oil changes take twice as long due to the many different size OEM bolts. worth doing the mod if you plan on long term ownership IMHO

Probably why you have such good fuel economy, sounds like it has been tuned for it??? Drive on sir! or keep her lit! (NI colloquialism)

I don't do diesels (diseasels :p), but plenty of plug and play chips/wiring looms with adjustable settings for economy. the rover boys squeeze 150bhp out of their L-series diesels, so anything is possible Td4 is a frugal engine as it stands,

IIRC Serengeti came out in 2002? anyway it will have the coil pack (non dizzy cap) and MEMS 3 ECU, which can be remapped for optimum fuel injection timing, mainly for performance, but equally for economy

He might want to mod with low fuel light by G13SJC http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/fed-up-no-low-fuel-warning-light-58660.html You needn't worry about fuel dregs, as the FL fuel pump pre-filter intake is right on the base of the tank anyway ;)