Anyone ever replaced the engine mount by the battery on a Xedi?

Northern Irelander · Jan 17, 2007

The Mad Hat Man said:
this mite be useful - 220 Engine mounts on e-bay

eBay.co.uk: Rover 220 Turbo int. R/Hand engine mounting bracket. (item 130015615321 end time 05-Feb-07 23:49:43 GMT)

Its this bracket that interests me the most, does it bolt to gearbox?

Cant purchase from e-bay, well I can but cant set up second e-mail through hotmail/yahoo/msn etc. My purchases will be local or through forum Im afraid

The Mad Hat Man · Jan 17, 2007

Will have to look over the w/e. Might be worth asking "Dr Dave" in the Rover forum - he should know.

Taipan · Jan 20, 2007

Well I replaced the mount today. In essence it's quite an easy job to do really, although mine was one of the worse jobs I've done on a car because the bolts were stuck, nay glued in, tight!

Anyway, the Haynes manual does take the long way to do it. I put it up on ramps and took the under tray off. Then dropped it back on the ground. I removed the air filter box (2 x 8mm bolts) and tied back the pipe that goes from that to the turbo. This allows you to get on the through bolt. If you followed the Haynes manual you'd remove all the clutch hydraulics out of the way and it may make it slightly easier? But it’s still a pig to get a wrench of any description on!

This bolt was absolutely glued in. I need a long bar on the socket to try and get some leverage, but to no avail. Normally a bit of impact engineering (clump with a heavy 'ammer) cracks the seal and its done. But I just couldn't get the right combinations of bars extensions etc to do this! In the end I use one of those extension bars for undoing wheel nuts. This was just the right angle and length with an extension bar to be able to push hard and far enough between the engine and rad t crack the seal. It was then a very slow and laborious job to creep the bolt out one click at a time on a ratchet!

Eventually I won, but was about two hours to get to this stage!

After that I supported the engine on a jack (with a piece of wood between it and the sump) and lowered it down until I could undo the two bolts that secure the mount to the chassis. It was then bloody fiddly getting the old mount out and the new one in. This was mainly due to my nervousness of lowering the engine that was pulling on the other mounts etc.

I put a smear of grease on the bolt where it goes through the alloy sleeve on the mount. So the next person should find the bolt comes out easier.

Then just bolted the mount to the chassis and jacked the enine/box back up till the holes lined up and slid the bolt through. Torqued everything up and put the airfilter/undertray back on and job done. Reassembly took about 15 minutes, which was a lot better than the three odd hours it took me to get the old mount out!

It was a complete waste of time anyway as the vibration problem still exists.

But you don’t know until you try do you!

The Mad Hat Man · Jan 20, 2007

Good job, jobbed tho Taipan.

Northern Irelander · Jan 22, 2007

Good effort Taipan. Sorry it hasnt sorted the problem.

I had a go at removing mine as well. Like you say the two bolts going through the gearbox are welded in with locking compound. Had to use leverage from 250Nm torque spanner.

Any ripped the rubber/aluminium hydramount out of the steel bracket.

Cant see how LR can justify £150 for a piece of crap engineering.

Did a Heath Robinson mod on the mount. Its solid as a rock with 30mm aluminium bar with rubber discs cut to fit. Compound of rubber is still too hard (hear every whine of gearbox) so will try a few silicone versions of the bush. Anything has to be better than the original

The Mad Hat Man · Jan 22, 2007

how about writing to superflex (or someone similar) with piccies - to see if they have summat offtheshelf which mite suffice?

here is the link - SuperFlex Polyurethane Suspension Bushes - Home Page

Northern Irelander · Jan 22, 2007

The Mad Hat Man said:
how about writing to superflex (or someone similar) with piccies - to see if they have summat offtheshelf which mite suffice?

Cheers, had a quick look at website. PolyURE bushes would be too hard for the engine mounts. They have to have some give and damper qualities to stop vibrations.

Was going to go down to local plastics supplier.

Rubber compound I was using was pretty strong stuff. Has the fibre matrix woven through it for extra strength.

The original Hydramount only had about 50ml of fluid inside

cordnal · Apr 2, 2014

Hey, it's a stab in the dark seems the post was nearly 7 year ago, I'm after a hydramount bracket but can't find one anywhere, where dya get yours from?&#55357;&#56836;

bushwwacker · Apr 2, 2014

cordnal said:
Hey, it's a stab in the dark seems the post was nearly 7 year ago, I'm after a hydramount bracket but can't find one anywhere, where dya get yours from?��

Taipan hasn't been on since 28/11/13 at 12:45

cordnal · Apr 2, 2014

ok thanks anyway

Northern Irelander · Apr 2, 2014

cordnal said:
Hey, it's a stab in the dark seems the post was nearly 7 year ago, I'm after a hydramount bracket but can't find one anywhere, where dya get yours from?&#55357;&#56836;

seven years ago lol

My version of the mount is still going strong.

Its a microcat part, can be called up on any Dealers part catalogue, you can't buy the hydramount separately, its the full metal support, £150 was the price 7 years ago!!

cordnal · Apr 3, 2014

Brilliant mate, I'm now thinking a breakers is best but just to clarify it's called a hydramount bracket that I need... God knows how much the things guna cost nowadays from a dealer &#55357;&#56881;

Northern Irelander · Apr 3, 2014

cordnal said:
Brilliant mate, I'm now thinking a breakers is best but just to clarify it's called a hydramount bracket that I need... God knows how much the things guna cost nowadays from a dealer &#55357;&#56881;

Which part of the bracket has split? There are three parts

1.hydramount aluminium/fluid/rubber bush
2.Metal housing with weighted damper which contains bush (bush is hydraulically pressed into metal housing )
3.Metal cowling bracket with through bolt for the bush and mounted via 4 bolts into LH side flitch panel/chassis member.

I wouldn't pay more than a tenner for each part, if 2 or 3 have cracks, consider getting it welded in some back street garage.

The bush perished on mine, hence the composite replacement

cordnal · Apr 3, 2014

hey, think its number 2 mate its the bracket that also bolts to the top of the gearbox, my mech said when he took it off he could see that there wasn't a full weld from the factory I trust him he`s a good guy, he welded it all backup where it had split in 2 and said there should be no probs but seems as im travelling to cornwall(6hrs away) in july I had that horrible feeling of getting hallway there and things going tits up again :scratching_chin: so I managed to find the part number with your help and the blokes from famous four wanted £237:crazy:!! even they said look for a second hand, and with a miracle because I knew the part number now one popped up in ebay for £20:amen:
thanks for all your help mate you put me on the correct path!!

raise:

Northern Irelander · Apr 4, 2014

cordnal said:
famous four wanted £237:crazy:

£237........... more like Famous Fraud

At least you got it sorted and got out cheap, keep err lit!

Anyone ever replaced the engine mount by the battery on a Xedi?

Northern Irelander

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The Mad Hat Man

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Taipan

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