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Overboost could also be caused by stuck-closed wastegate on turbo. Plenty of threads on here involving mole grips and liberal quantities of WD40

> When I floor it/high demand/load, the revs drop off, but only after it SHOULD have changed gear. I think the auto box is slipping under high load. Sounds bit like how overboosting "felt" when I had it. Caused by defective boost valve, ECU cuts the power when the valve fails to modulate boost...

Valve stem oil seals? Not a known weak spot on TD5, but 320K would give plenty of scope to bake and harden some rubber

Area around where the horn mounts is a moisture trap and corrosion hotspot. Worth getting the grill off for a quick look

Belated thanks for the replies on this ... Now lining up a weekend to do this, and was looking at parts drawing of the timing cover - http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/37503/37504/2887 Question ... what do I do with the stud (6)? Looks like that stud will stop me sliding the cover out towards the...

Looking for a Nanocom for Disco TD5, please PM/DM me if you're looking to sell

I'm trying this: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/posts/4105982/ It's still working 8 months on, although I would consider 3 to 5 years a more "interesting" test

Haha, "unreasonably" - in other words: depends what mood your tester is in?

Pretty sure I once read it'll lock up at lower speed in third, but dunno if that would low enough to keep the hoss happy

Why on earth LR never debounced that switch is beyond me. Neighbours surely wondering by now why I flap the mirrors 3 times every morning

Can't help with a recommendation, but wherever you end up don't make the mistake I made - ask if they'll remove all steps, plastic trim and undertrays before starting, then check for yourself once job is done

Seconded - it wicks down the conductors

Job done - parts and plan were spot-on, step-by-step photos attached, and here's the finished article ...

New-fangled child seat requires both isofix (already got) and top-tether (which, in case it was news to you too, is basically: a strap like a seat belt which is supposed to pass over the top of the built-in seat - under the headrest I spose - down the back of same seat and hook onto a sturdy...

Had the sump off last summer to do the oil pump bolt, found a small piece of beige plastic which would seem to indicate that the timing chain guides are starting to break up. So ideally, I'd like to replace them. Q: what's the minimum amount of dismantling needed to do the job? Does the crank...

I had similar, turned out it was oily gunk leaking from inlet manifold which was loose on the head. Most of the studs/screws were loose in fact. Seems "they do that"

> Get the underside inspected paying particular attention to the rear end and cross member. Get anything that requires work sorted and then steam clean and treat it with either Dinatrol or Bilt-Hamber. Don't neglect the actual bodywork itself either - there's a myth that the bodies don't "go" on...

Oh, and I didn't remove the bonnet. Doesn't get in the way at all

Did same thing last year: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/posts/4015040/ "Highlights" - - fuel cooler was an absolute b***er to get reattached to inlet manifold. Bottom bolt being the culprit - quite a few inlet manifold fixings were loose (which explained the oily slick down that side of the engine)