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So just checked the fuse and was ok so yes wastegate it could well be, new turbo or is there a fix? Or a way to test? But it’s doing exactly as you describe

Ok thank you, sounds like something to check tomorrow, will report back.

It’s a 2000 TD5, the 8014 says air flow low, the 8046 days air flow fault active. I did research them which led me to get the live data which suggested the MAF was at fault but apparently not, is F2 in the engine bay fuse box?

So I’ve got an intermittent low power issue, can be driving fine then power can drop off, if it does it under load it’s more instant and harsh than my foot slipping off the throttle. Only codes on Hawkeye are 8014 & 8046, MAF was showing zero on live data so replaced, still showing zero. Are...

Had an intermittent alarm fault with mine, don’t use the car often so borrowed a friends Hawkeye and turned off the alarm and immobiliser.

As the title suggests I’m looking to buy a discovery TD5 front prop shaft, preferably near Worcester area

No cdl on mine just the traction control.

And now it’s Christmas Day I’m getting the same ear ache lol. Will check tomorrow, looks easy enough to check.

Haven’t done that, the UJ definitely needs to be replaced but how do you tell if the cv is failing?

I thought cv joint initially, sort of that sound but not on turning. I did undo one end of the front prop shaft and found the UJ nearest the transfer box has a fair amount of movement, would that cause a squeal though?

So I’ve found I have an odd noise when I accelerate, sort of a rattle/knock/squeal, Thought cv joint but now I’m not sure. In the rains last night I went out and it felt sluggish like is was struggling to turn the wheels. This morning I tried to pull away and It will drive but getting a loud...

It has 2 wires going to it, has a metal plate in the bolt hole so I’m assuming that will be the earth

Yes came up with no signal received or something similar

Sorry yes your right, I meant the led works off both buttons, will take a trip to Timpsons to get the fob tested.

No was referring to the fob led. I’ve turned the dash led off now but don’t remember that reacting to the fob, it did react to the door lock though. I tested the receiver to see if it registered a signal from the fob and it didn’t but that could mean a wiring issue as much as a receiver issue...

Definitely a possibility although both led’s work and no visible damage. Any idea how to test?

Ok so....... borrowed Hawkeye but when I returned to the car and connected the battery as before the fob didn’t work, car wouldn’t start. Plugged in Hawkeye and on the 3rd attempt it connected to the bcu, turned of alarm and immobiliser and the car now starts, checked fob to see if signal...

Ah ok, less of a drama then

Isn’t there meant to be a little transponder chip in the lid of the fob?

Just realised my fob doesn’t have a transponder chip in it as well so I guess that’s probably been an issue before, have seen people tape them to the steering column before. Wouldn’t explain why the fob had stopped working though.