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Yes.. same issues, but I wanted to know how far I would need to strip the box to get the entire selector shaft out to repair it. in the end, I got another box and fitted it.... only got a sloppy linkage to sort out now!!

Does anyone have a better manual for the GETRAG box? the RAVE manual doesn't give me the detail I need. for example.. what holds the selector shaft in place behind the aluminium cover plate (where the seal is)? Thanks.

Refitted 35,000 engine, genuine clutch, LUK Slave... Cheap Master Cylinder.... Fitted new brakes all round.. fired up the car and cant engage 5th or reverse gear.. new gear box coming tomorrow!!! what had I done to it since I owned it...... almost fully rebuilt the entire car.... every except...

Thanks Nodge... funny.... the engine purred like a kitten, very smooth... the clutch pedal was to the floor initially... I lifted it with my foot and had a full pedal all 3... yes... 3 gears engaged perfectly...... but..... looking at the gearbox today, I have lost 5th and Reverse. I tried to...

After fitting the engine, new ird cooler, g/box etc. the engine fires up and sounds absolutely sweet. but.... The gear lever is too far over to the right, to the point to get it into 5th or reverse, the lever is in the seat.. another problem... because of this issue.... I go to engage 1st gear...

ok.. this post is all about "I"..... eye eye eye eye eye.... I have just refitted a new(er) engine and new LUK clutch and DTMF into my TD4 (2003) Freebie. I haven't started it up yet... but.. (from experience..... which wasn't good) I have fitted a new LUK Slave Cylinder Fitted a new Bearmach...

OK.. I tried to fit the Freelander Alternator, but the Aircon Pump bracket wouldnt let it fit down enough to fit the bottom bolts. so..... as the engine was out... I attacked the AirCon Pump mounting bracket with an angle grinder.... and lord behold... it fits... like a glove. I've finally got...

the rover alternator has he same amount of wires, but the plug is the rounded type, whereas the freelander is is a sqaure / rectangular connector.the rover 75cdti have every conceivable extra.. and had the Webasto pre heater.. as my freebie doesn't have the Webasto, not half ad many electronics...

Hi All. Quick Question. I'm replacing the Engine in the TD4 with a good engine from a Rover 75 CDTI. I have changed:- Turbo Injectors & wring harness Wiring Loom Steel Coolant Pipes EGR Blank fitted. I've even cleared all of the threads on the back of the engine block with a "Threading" Tap...

Just got hold of the Mongoose Cable And JLR Software - hoping to get into using it when I get the engine back in.. Although it isn't much fun in the rain, ice and other bad weather without a garage to work in at the moment! I'm hoping for someone in Nottinghamshire (close to me - Selston Area)...

Hi Andy, on a forum like this, it's never too late to offer information - if I have sorted it, someone else may have the same question. however; The engine is still on the floor at the moment, and has a donor engine sat next to it waiting for the weather and the time to swap over the bits and...

I would say 100% but as I said above.... it's as though people don't check for movement before refitting the clutch. As I say in most of my posts now (due to having refitted a good engine from an auto...) - "Do not start your car with the foot on the clutch!!" the crankshaft bearings are drier...

Dave is 99.99% correct in these cases.... Although.... doesn't any garage check for crankshaft end float these days when they replace a clutch? That's the issue I had. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-crank-shaft-end-float-how-do-i-get-rid-of-it.290883/

A word of advice to all TD4 Manual Owners - regardless of GETRAG or PG1 box.... do NOT start the engine with the foot on the clutch. this causes the bearing to wear much more quickly than it should... My engine had 130,000 miles on it when it first went..... now I have two engines... the rover...

I tried shimming mine up due to the same problem.. I do all of my own maintenance so I did it as a "to prove a point" - When the gearbox came off I got hold of the flywheel and began to pull and push it to see if there was end-float.... sadly there was...... so I had the choice of changing the...

It helps to remove the wheel and arch lining.... although it can be accessed (with a little difficulty) from underneath (but not recommended when you get an face full of diesel).

OH Dear.... I sent my Audi A4 Quattro to Mr Clutch in Derby for a new clutch fitting.... I let them know when I booked it in, and when I took the vehicle to them, that I know what i'm on about, but don't have the facilities to do the job myself... i explained to them, that once the box was off...

I'm wanting to do exactly the same thing, but searching on here made me give up. Apparently.... switches are on different places and use different protocols (can bus or obdii - can;t remember what was said now - sorry) With the response the OP got when they asked the same question... I...

It's fine cleaning the intercooler hoses etc.. but what about the intercooler itself? I bought an audi A4 with a kn4ckered turbo for the grand total of 200 quid... replaced the turbo, but took the intercooler off the car.... i must have drained out half a gallon of oil... i ended up leaving the...

When you say you have had the fuel pump replaced? which one? the High Pressure unit bolted onto the engine above the alternator, or one of the electrical pumps at the rear of the car.??