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Ok, so had a search but can't find anything on this. For the past few days my steering wheel has stopped locking when taking the keys out? Found plenty of info on the steering not unlocking with the key & being unable to turn key in barrel to start but not vice versa?

+1 not a good idea to cold start on LPG. The vaporizer needs to warm up first. Should be built into the LPG ECU if sequential.

Whats frightening is that 90 have been sold! :eek:

Took the family to the local bonfire / fireworks last night. First time i've really driven it since doing the ARB bushes & drop links. Can't believe how wallowy it was before....well planted now:)

Hear Hear! I do think LR could shoot their self in the foot with the Evoke. Getting the public into the brand with a plastic version of the RR will bring in lots of sales & profit short-term but what will this do to get the public to upgrade to the true RR brand? If their first experience in RR...

+1 sounds like HG. Have a look from under the engine with it running & look between the head & block. Also remove oil filler whilst engine running, is it sucking air or blowing?

;):D:D:D

The cat back Janspeed system on mine does apparently fit the diesel so yes to your question. Why remains a mystery.

WHY! You want to hear a V8, not a diesel with a straight through - really would sound like a tractor. I'd stick to the stock system.

No worries, Head bolts MUST be changed, they are stretch bolts so cannot be used again.

It does sound very similar to my problem earlier this year. My original pump thermal switch failed so bought a refurbed pump only to find it ran too often & was concerned about another thermal switch fail - obviously loosing air somewhere. I found no leaks anywhere (valve block, pipes, dryer...

Good man! The Rover V8 is pretty simple to work on. Just take your time, label everything up so you know where it all goes back. I'm no home mechanic but I found it all pretty straight forward. Just make sure you use good quality gaskets (Elring) / bolts etc. I use Turner Engineering for parts...

Would be around £500 - £600 up my way depending whether you have both done - recommended whilst everything is off. Last thing you need is the other bank to go shortly after (experience speaking here). Might also need heads checked / skimmed. You could do it yourself. I'd say 3 days tops first...

I don't think there are any core plugs in this area if i'm right in this is the passenger side front of the block. I'd clean the area around this - especially above where the cylinder head joins the block & look for where further leaks are coming from as if the leak is running down from the...

The place I bought my new compressor from recommended these as they use them for valve block refurbs : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321451232414?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Replaced my track rod assembly. Waiting for new tyres, then get it properly tracked at the garage whilst fitting the tyres.

Found the reason for a rather large engine oil leak.....assuming the oil separator was missing from my LH breather I put one in. Only to notice after glancing through RAVE there aint one on the LH. Must have caused the crankcase to pressurize & eject oil out of every orifice! :oops: stooopid...

All sounds good. Going to pull my heads again when i get my spare set refurbed & putting ARP's in. Just getting fed up of having to replace head gaskets all the time & never been happy with the stretch bolts. I opted for the Kent 180 cam & 4.0 pistons. Anyway.....going slightly off topic here ;)

Good man! You going standard with the engine. Hope you have better luck than me with the new engine. If i did mine again i would helicoil all the head threads & ARP the lot of them.

Hi Martin, whats the reason for the new engine build? PS, fitted the new screen connector to my HEVAC unit this week....works a treat! :)