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Hi all! I will be collecting ´my´ P38 this week! Quite pricey, but I need an LHD one! I have been looking for one for perhaps 3 years now. Most that I saw were very high mileage, badly worn or neglected. I have come across one that has just 49,000km! I will post some pictures up once I collect...

The cost can vary greatly... I'm currently getting quotes for a full re-spray. The other thing to consider is that the quality will vary hugely...ask to see an example of their work. As you´re getting the roof done it will probably be easiest to take it off anyway. Check the gutter sealant...

Regarding tyres I would recommend going for the standard factory dimensions 235/85 16. Large tyres cause all sorts of problems...well at last they did for me and mine werent even particularly big. For a mud tyre I would use BFG mud terrain. I had them on a previous D2 and they were great plus...

I rarely tow anything with the defender...when i do its usually a light trailer up to 750kg. I think i will order the 1.2 eventually, but i'll think it over. Does anyone have experience of the sleeved casing and hd cross pins? Are they worth the extra expense?

I'm running 235/85 16 on wolf steels. I have it remapped to around 150 bhp. It is ok on the motorway as is but i feel the 1.2 would be ideal. I had a d2 and that was great!

My LT230 is not in the best condition and I am thinking of changing it for an Aschcroft one. They state that many people change from a 1.4 to a 1.2 on a TD5 Defender. However, they also offer a 1.0, 1.1 and 1.3. Are there any negatives if I were to go for a 1.1 for example? I understand that it...

Possibly the turbo...but its difficult to access without having it

I will be making a draw when the rails arrive. The right hand side needs an offset like i saw in your pics. The left could probably do with another 5mm offset or so but i will see. There will be a storage bin behind the draw that will open from the top but i'm undecided whether to have it on...

@flounderbout you have inspired be to build my own storage. Here it is as a work in progress...

I would suggest giving it a very through wash, especially the chassis. Make sure there is no mud as it will hold moisture and corrode the steel. I have seen a lubricant some people use on door seals and other rubber bits so they don't dry. If you can then take it for an occassional drive and get...

I am planning to do mine in raptor black soon. They sell a spray can as well for small bits. You get quite a nice finish, which should also be durable.

I think LRC755 is most likely? https://paintman.co.uk/shop/land-rover-bt-white-lrc755/

I am getting quotes from people who can spray the body. I am also looking into doing it myself. The one quote I have so far is 2500EUR including paint. I don´t particularly need a factory finish, something decent looking will do. I have been looking at the site below and various videos online...

I bought a new panel on one side, the other side just needed straightening and I am yet to fit it I thought the seat box was going to be too difficult for me, but I managed it. I had it professionally sandblasted and then replaced the two side panels with new pieces from YRM. I painted it...

I've been working away on the 110 and am beginning to put it back together again. I've put in a new crossmember as it was missing altogether. I also ordered a new aluminium piece to fit in the rear footwell

There are probably other things causing vibrations, I've been chasing every vibration for the past year :) and it drives better than before. In hindsight I probably shouldn't have been comparing it to my regular road car as that is bound to have a smoother ride. I had 235/85/16 BFGs on before...

I will probably keep them even if I change as I do some offroad ocassionally.

If you go to Romania you will need to provide proof you own your car. They usually check at the border as they are not in the Schengen zone. V5 should do. Probably serbia also but i haven't been there personally...likely to take some time to get cross the border as theyre not in eu

If you are just transiting then definitely go through Austria. The main motorway in Czech Rep. from Prague to Brno is undergoing masive renovation and there are road works everywhere. The bits that aren't are made from concrete panels and will literally shake your bones.

Austria doesn´t have tolls, you just need a Vignette for around 10EUR for a 10days. The Czech Republic also requires a Vignette, Slovakia and Hungary are electronic vignettes. Croatia has toll roads, which are very expensive. Slovenia requires a Vignette. I would recommend visiting...