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I burn out the bushes and then cut the outer skin with a hacksaw, that's the tedious part and then drive it out. It usually comes out after half the depth is hacksawed. Even describing this makes me whince cos I did it on the ground in the open in sheite weather.

32 mm but be careful, only one turn in and out and then finish with a file and then give it a jolly good clean to get swarf and filings out. Don't repeatedly ream it; just to get it round and smooth.

Back plates are becoming like hens teeth. Cheapest I've found 3 months ago is £75 (Dunsfold) . Craddocks quote £125. It's a discontinued part which I find astonishing given it's recurring purpose.

Just done my front suspension, with standard springs and bushes. The bushes and bolts are cheap, springs around £70 each. Replace the spring hangers as well and the shocker rubber bushes. The whole job is bish bash bosh cutting burning and driving out the chassis bushes; right bastard of a job...

X1 on getting the down pipe out, you'll have to jack it up and use axle stands to get enough angle to get it out and position the new one. The brass studs and set screws can be fiddly but a long socket extension will do the job. Personally I'd replace the set screws if they are corroded, thems...

The reason there's no guidance is cos they were an optional extra. Personally I'd avoid fitting them; yes they maybe authentic but once fitted they tend to just siece and rust unless they get a lot of TLC.

No, poncy Walker Bombay mix which has a Matt black metallic finish. Saves on having to paint. Oh and for Door pillar holes yer can't beat Brillo Pads and a skim of quick set plaster fill. Watch for shrinking, endless colour choice to finish.

YRM solutions.

I'm in the same place as posted. I use it everyday but maximum mileage is 30-35 miles a day. Previous to that I only used it at weekends for pootering around. I noticed when I used it more daily it ran better. Intermittent use and short journeys aren't good for an engine. A dam good thrashing as...

Not sure what you're referring to. The bulkhead is a pressed panel and then with areas welded on. Refurbishment is possible, you can buy replacement door pillars (YRM Solutions) amongst other bits like the corners and footwells. If there's rot above the pedals that's when you've got serious...

Welcome. As posted try the series forum. Saying that I wouldn't expect more than 55mph from a period series gearbox with an overdrive; they're very low geared compared to modern gearboxes. Made for driving in a pre motorway era.

X1 on crap standard heater. Some of the standard parts such as the cowling- snail are difficult to source. I've refurbished to the original spec but it's pathetic heat output. Suggest you look non. Standard alternative.

Well done so far, sorry that the tippex didn't work, just need something bright. Bye the bye have you considered static timing? It does work and will get you running and then able to refine?

Stuff the neighbors. Welcome

Sorry meant tippex.

Use tipper once you find it. If you're using a timing strobe it works great.

Oh yeah. Welcome. A proper landy and a valuable one tool. Any more photos? That's a totally classic Range Rover,

You're right. The slider at the bottom is useless, especially if you carry a spare wheel. I've rigged mine to swop to canvas tilt in the summer so I've just disconnected the slider ; it's a pain but my tyre saves hitting the lights.

I think that's a question for the Defender part of the forum. :)

Why not just use the trolley jack on the diff housing and slot the axle stands in. As posted there's less space on the driver side due to offset diff.