Search results

Engineers can put a thin sleeve over the damaged area. I forget what they are called. I have to do the same thing for a front drive shaft that wept oil where it ran on the seal, and I'll keep it as a spare. Were the tappets noisy? Not that common to replace them is it?

I was under the FL today and gave the prop shaft a good twist, push and pull. There is what I would call acceptable movement when I twist the prop shaft - it rotates only a few mm each way. There is a small amount of movement in the rear UJ and the front UJ. I'll organise to replace these as I...

Had a go at replacing a CV boot today only to find a couple of other issues to look at too. There was a coolant weep from the coolant elbow where it leaves the head. I replaced the pipe clamp so I hope that's sorted it. Then there's an oil weep as well, not sure about this one as it looks like...

I recall that Winu, a member on here, did a lot of work restoring his L series FL1. It included a complete strip out of the interior and installing sound insulation. Lots of pics on his posts too:) iirc he used a 3M product.

My experience has been that when everything is carefully lined up as per w/s manual, and yes I do use the cam locking tool, then the belt slips on fairly easily. I work my way around clockwise beginning at the crank pulley. I only partially put it on each part ie: water pump pulley, inlet cam...

Thank you Nodge. I found this on the The Rover 75 MGZT owner club site. I've always found this an interesting and encouraging read as wall as the K-engine pages. I'm intrigued to consider fitting the VVC exhaust valves to a st'd K-series head.

Thanks Nodge, I've been looking on-line at a w/shop manual and decided it wasn't a job for me. However, I have a K-series motor on a stand that needs a cylinder liner resealed in So I'll have a go at that. I plan to leave the piston in the sleeve and just remove the big-end cap then push the...

Getting on to projects that have been sitting on the 'shelf' for ages. I've a K series cylinder head I'm reconditioning. It's a good one and it's been plained in prep' to refitting. I've also used my Dremel to open up the coolant apertures a bit. Question: The valve guides are worn. I've a...

Did you use LEDs?

OK I used to have an annoying thumping when moving off from rest and turning. I replaced the centre diff' mount with a genuine LR part. But that annoying thumping still happens. What have I missed?

Pretty good numbers there. Does the M47 model get better figures? Looking at those figures you could run a K series with its spritlier performance. Might be cheaper too with no RUC to pay.

Have you checked out your transfer box - IRD? Having a look at the oil when it's drained will give an indication on its condition. A fine 'fuzz' on the magnet and clear oil is good. A silvery sheen may well indicate that the bearings etc are shot. Chunks of metal in the oil = bad. Make sure...

Have head checked: hardness and flatness [ skim] parts: Head gasket - I used a Payen BW750 as my liners are at uneven heights head bolts, inlet & exhaust gaskets, & possibly a cam cover gasket too. Coolant [5.5litres] Engine oil & Filter? If the cam belt was done recently = no problem, otherwise...

Def' not me - I'm on the SE coast checking out some interesting wee trails... You may be interested in this too...video [it plays a x2 speed!

Drove it! Went up the Old Man Range, southwest of Alexandra, to the Obelisk 1682m. A bit cloudy and chilly up there and there was still some snow blocking the track to the south. Merry Christmas to All.

The head gasket issue is most commonly seen in the, FL 1, 1997 to 2006, and specifically in the earlier K series 1800 engine. I'm not aware of HG issues with the FL2. Top up with the same as what's in it. Other wiser peeps will comment soon. Signs of HG failure include: unexplained coolant...

The NGK site lists them as the same temp' range, '6'. The platinum have a smaller centre electrode 'fine wire' according to NGK and the Nickel core is larger with a V cut to enhance spark - looks like both are gapped to 1.1mm

NGK PFR6N-11 have a platinum core & electrode and should last 90,000miles. NGK BKR6E-11have a nickle core ... should last 30,000 miles

Ha, coincidental I just got a set of plugs to fit as the old ones have nearly done 100,000km - NGK PFR6N-11.

Passed its WoF, MOT to you, but coming up for a pair of tyres :(. Have to try and find time to replace the F nearside inner CV boot.