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Also very true. Thanks

That's possibly true but I need a quote so I can negotiate with the seller if needs be. Seems cheap as it is though, to be fair. Thanks btw - all good info. Will just have to shop around.

Plus £60 an hour labour (or whatever the indie rate is these days). If he'd have just said "That's 2 days labour, so £1000 plus parts", I'd have been cool with that as the car is a cheap buy because of that and a turbo issue. I'd expect to be spending a few grand on it.

I'm thinking of buying a Defender that needs the rear main seal replacing (allegedly) - bit beyond my facilities and skill so I thought I'd get some quotes first. I had a local indie LR shop in mind for the work. Bit late in the day so I thought I'd ask on their FB page for some kind of quote...

Actually managed to jump start it eventually - but now my Disco bonnet won't stay shut! ...and I'm buying a Defender! What am I thinking?

Hi, how did you do that? I'm trying to work out how to change from M1 to N1 as there are more M1 about but I need it to be N1. There are forms online but I can't see one that mentions this. Thanks

I wish it were that simple. Trust me it isn't - I've been though it. But yes, the best option is to buy one that is already a commercial, even though there could be zero difference physically. There's just fewer available though.

Thanks that sounds ideal. Looking now...

That would make me liable for personal tax on the charges. I could just bill personal mileage but there are limits to that. As a company owned vehicle, the company pays for all bills which obviously works out much cheaper for me as I just need to pay a small BIK charge for any personal use, but...

The V6 VCU has a vibration damper on it as well - is that the same on the 1.8?

Same, except mine was an L series (profile pic). Essentially wrecked by a local garage before I knew better. Had every option other than the body kit. One of my biggest regrets getting rid of it.

Discovered I'd left the ignition on for a few days. Also discovered my Disco hasn't got enough guts to jump start it in tickover - but I can't be in both at once! :( I guess I'll just take the battery out and charge it!

Hi, anyone know how to change the registration of a Defender? I want to buy one for my business and could do with it being registered as a commercial. Or is there an actual difference between the two, other than the V5? Cheers

Bought a high-lift jack. No need to use that breeze block as a base any more!

That seems like the easiest option and probably wouldn't hurt to replace it anyway so I'll start there. Thanks (again) :)

Never replaced those before. Is it relatively easy? Not gearbox off I hope :( Hmm I'm pretty sure I replaced that switch some time ago, but maybe I'm mis-remembering - I have had a few FLs now. Awesome :)

I managed to get hold of an adapter for my Hawkeye Total (not so "Total" apparently) The results are as follows: 1. 5E17 CAN Gear Plausibility 2. 5DF4 Voltage low 3. 5E5D BLS Electrical Fault 4. Unknown fault 5. 5DF5 Internal Fault Ok, so I didn't expect it to say "Ah, you have a faulty...

Special order though, so they may not be able to get them. If you could have a look I'd be grateful. Looks like the connectors are easy to find. Thanks! [Edit] Don't worry I managed to find one, thanks :)

That's a great offer thanks, but if that's all there is to it, would it be less destructive to get the pinouts using a multimeter?

I had one of them Couldn't get it to work so I sent it back. Would prefer to have one device for all my LRs but maybe I'll give it another go if I can't find a cheaper adapter.