What have you done to your Freelander today

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andyfreelandy said:
Don't forget to repair...
  • Nearside Front Outer Drive shaft joint constant velocity boot severely deteriorated (6.1.7 (g) (i))
Click to expand...
LOL, someone else noseying at the MOT history.
Nice looking car Nodge, Mileage looks 100% going by the history.
I'm sure you'll have it knocked into shape in no time. ;)
 
Alibro said:
LOL, someone else noseying at the MOT history.
Nice looking car Nodge, Mileage looks 100% going by the history.
I'm sure you'll have it knocked into shape in no time. ;)
Click to expand...

It'll be a running restoration Ali, although it's too good for a restoration really.
I always check MOT history before I look at a vehicle, and based on what I read, and what I see, I then decide the price I'm happy paying, or walk away.
Unfortunately in the Southwest, cars are often up to twice as expensive as an equivalent vehicle in the Midlands. I finally paid £2050 for this one, which was up for an asking price of £2600. In my book, it needs too much work for the full asking price, but I'm happy with what I paid. Unlike my FL2 purchase last summer, this one has an engine that runs absolutely beautifully, which makes a refreshing change.
:)
 
Last edited:
54plate Td4 S
Bought it last week for £300, today I did the clutch master cylinder as the pedal was on the floor. Also fitted a replacement alternator, EGR delete, full service and filters (swapped the oil breather for a separator), new serpentine belt and new wipers. Sorted the airbag light by spraying contact cleaner into the underwear connectors. Tomorrow will be new rear brakes then MOT early next week, properly pleased with it.
 
Hopefully cured a coolant leak...
Replaced the factory hose clip for a jubilee clip on the hose from the rad where it connects to the 'stat housing.
FL2 TD4
 
Fitted my side bars.
Unpacked them to find they were non-genuine, so not as advertised :(
Decided to fit them anyway to save the pallava of returning them.
Had to re-drill a few holes due to some welding.
Took it for a drive after, MIL came one for a few seconds, then it went out, then the 3 amigos appeared!
Ah well I was asking for more stuff to do I guess...
 
Repaired drivers door lock actuator.
Process: Removed and stripped the actuator, replaced one of the tiny motors with a new one from China, reassembled and re-fitted, removed it again (as the polarity meant it opened when it should close and vice versa), switched the polarity around then refitted.
Total cost £11 (as opposed to £120) and only 397 man hours!
 
Wet Cubbyhole said:
Repaired drivers door lock actuator.
Process: Removed and stripped the actuator, replaced one of the tiny motors with a new one from China, reassembled and re-fitted, removed it again (as the polarity meant it opened when it should close and vice versa), switched the polarity around then refitted.
Total cost £11 (as opposed to £120) and only 397 man hours!
Click to expand...
Excellent use of your time. :p
Last time I bought a used one off eBay for around £30 and took the used part lottery. Mine worked too but nowhere near the same fun. ;)
 
bukko said:
Fitted my side bars.
Unpacked them to find they were non-genuine, so not as advertised :(
Decided to fit them anyway to save the pallava of returning them.
Had to re-drill a few holes due to some welding.
Took it for a drive after, MIL came one for a few seconds, then it went out, then the 3 amigos appeared!
Ah well I was asking for more stuff to do I guess...
Click to expand...
Very much my story of FL1 ownership. Do a job, feel a sense of satisfaction, then summat else comes along. All part of the fun.
 
Plugged-in the Hawkeye to see what the MIL is all about.
P1E30 Boost control positive governor deviation (boost pressure too low)
P1255 Fuel low pressure sensor. Signal out of range.

I suppose the P1E30 could be a hose. I have suspected for a while the one coming out (or in?) the turbo has a small split.
The P1255 one though - seems like that can only be the sensor, or could it be the same thing somehow?
(It has a fairly new low pressure FP and BCV)

Also, it seems I need a grey adapter (BA5077) to read my ABS ECU, which is £100 on Ebay :O
Will be googling for that but any ideas where to get one otherwise?
 
bukko said:
I had one of them Couldn't get it to work so I sent it back.
Would prefer to have one device for all my LRs but maybe I'll give it another go if I can't find a cheaper adapter.
Click to expand...

Never had a problem with my I930 on any LR, with the exception of the TCM on my FL1, which it didn't see.
I've found it very reliable, and definitely worth the small outlay.
 
bukko said:
Plugged-in the Hawkeye to see what the MIL is all about.
P1E30 Boost control positive governor deviation (boost pressure too low)
P1255 Fuel low pressure sensor. Signal out of range.

I suppose the P1E30 could be a hose. I have suspected for a while the one coming out (or in?) the turbo has a small split.
The P1255 one though - seems like that can only be the sensor, or could it be the same thing somehow?
(It has a fairly new low pressure FP and BCV)

Also, it seems I need a grey adapter (BA5077) to read my ABS ECU, which is £100 on Ebay :O
Will be googling for that but any ideas where to get one otherwise?
Click to expand...
I could split mine open so you can make yer own from a blank dongle. Just wire the correct pins.
 
bukko said:
That's a great offer thanks, but if that's all there is to it, would it be less destructive to get the pinouts using a multimeter?
Click to expand...
Yes. Just not sure if theres anything other than a few wires inside. Cracking it open isn't a problem. Bearmach stopped selling them but they're back a 65 sovs each now.
 
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