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today I got a K series, with crankshaft and the adapted flex plate, bolted up to the assembled Jatco gearbox. This was to index where to where to weld the trigger wheel on to the torque converter. The good news is that entire assembly turns over beautifully smoothly with no sticky or stiff...

this morning a friend of mine had a go, and it just dropped straight in for him. hmm

I'm stuck. I pulled out the reduction gear to get to the reverse band and changed the reverse band okay, but I can't get the reduction gear to drop back in. There are too many things that need to align at the same time. Also the instructions (from here...

Once my auto 1.8 is done I will have a really nice TD4 HSE for sale. It's not perfect, but it's very nice.

honestly, just get one from a JLR parts department. They don't need coding and it shouldn't need diagnostics time. Just cut the blade and it should work.

found it https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander1-no-reverse-gear.390527/post-5668483

it was something to do with the number of rivets wasn't it?

The reverse band is known weak point on these transmissions, and, as there is a "heavy duty" replacement available, and, as it is so much work to get these gearboxes in and out I am thinking that I should get an fit the heavy duty one now, whilst the gearbox is in pieces already. I just spoke...

I dropped them an email just now with the VIN number of the car that my gearbox came from. Hopefully they can help.

is this correct for a V6 Jatco? :- https://www.jpat.co.uk/uploads/1/0/3/5/103549764/69__nissan_4_was_mazda_2_jf506e_ja5a_el.pdf

does anyone know of a full parts database for the Freelander 1 so that I can search for genuine part numbers myself?

I will call bbareman tomorrow and ask them if they can virginise them

I have heard elsewhere that you can jumper certain wires to disable the immo. I need to support a customer in Portugal though and I don't really want to ask them to cut wires and stuff. Really I need to send them an ECU and have them plug it in and it either works, or they follow some steps...

I have an EPROM programmer so I could clone one ECU to another that way too. Interesting.

Has anyone here any experience, or documentation, on how to change an L-Series ECU? specifically how to match them to the immobiliser/alarm? I have heard two conflicting and a potential third story:- 1. That you have to "factory default" a used ECU before you can code it to the vehicle with...

it's the reverse band that I'm stuggling to find. It seems silly to put it back in with a known weak part

I spent last saturday under the car and removed the subframe and IRD. I might get the PG1 out today or tomorrow. I need to order a heavy duty reverse band, and a torque converter oil seal for the Jatco, as they might be going in quite soon. Can anyone tell me where I can get them from? One...

ECU powered up on the bench rather than installed in an actual vehicle. It often results in some very odd data.

I believe that the early Freelander 1 used Wabco-D ABS. There are details of that here:- https://pscan.uk/features/wabcod.html

anyone else? as GrumpyGel has forgotten in which continent he lives