With the price of the new/recon ones I'd say it's worth the effort to try and fix it yourself as the service items are a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing the whole thing...as long as you don't have to replace the conrod.
Changing the piston seal is easy enough...only tricky parts are...
Cheers for the reply Datatek.
I replaced the alternator not long ago, so I guess it might be supplying enough power without having to raise the revs.
Just another thing I'd like to be able to cross of my list as workin to help find the problem.
Hi folks,
Still tryin to troubleshoot the prob I'm having with the P38.
Just a quick question about testing the IAC valve.
I've tested the resistance across the coils in the stepper motor and both are within range. The problem is when I test it while it's running it doesn't seem to make any...
The coolant mix also raises the boiling point, as well as lowering the freezing point...like lanmjdun says, if the water in the block freezes it expands and can do lots of damage.
Cheers for the reply Canyon.
Rave says dexron III, just had a few litres of dexron II sitting around so wondered if I could use this. Don't know how much difference there is between II and III.
that's not a bad idea at all, if I ever bothered with an ipod! :p
I had a nice sony head unit in my last car with bluetooth, music streaming from my phone along with handsfree...about the only thing I've missed since getting the P38.
PAS fluid change on my list of maintainance jobs.
Can't see on rave how to drain the system, is it just a case of disconnecting the reservoir return and letting the system power new fluid through?
Is Dexron II ok for this or does it have to be Dexron III?
Any recommended additives for this?
If only it was so simple in mine, from what I can tell the only way to get an aftermarket head unit working properly is to remove the all the amps from the system and fit new crossovers...that's why I've left it alone for now, back to the old days of burning CD's for the changer! :eek:
Not sure about the different audio systems, and not tested myself, just read in a few places that you can get sounds probs with aftermarket stereos (hiss, crackle, distortion etc) since the head unit drives the amps seperately?
The sound quality is good, no complaints there at all...apart from it bein a bit dated and hard work putting a new head unit in.
Main reason I ask is the high frequency speaker in one of the back doors has gone (AMR6359). Seems overly expensive to replace with OEM, and don't really wanna be...
I'll be heading there for my parts 1st next time! :)
Didn't put any support behind my filter, but can see that it would defintely have helped...probably makes it last quite a bit longer.
This is the kit I bought:
P38 Range Rover Ventilation Inlet Filter Kit BTR8037 | eBay UK
The plenum filter on it's own is £15ish, so adding a tenner for both pollen filters didn't seem too bad.
Irishrovers description of the job is spot on, you'll have no probs if you follow that.
Drivers side has the twist in it (assuming I put em back in the right order! ;) ).
Changed mine last weekend along with the pollen filters, pollen filters were completely blocked with leaves, branches and small animals!
The gulley with the wiper mechanism was chock full of crap too.
Not too...
Have you checked the bottom of the radiator for any signs of a leak? can be a common problem from what I've been reading.
I think pressure in the top hose is normal (hope so anyway ;) ), as long as the pressure drops when the engine cools.