I took mine off at the weekend to clean them up and fit new flaps. The bracket screws into a bush / insert in the chassis rail, I think it's brass. One unscrewed fine, the other side the bush came out. so need a new one.
I spent about an hour yesterday trying to get these damned things out, just taken me 2 seconds. It's easy if you know the answer!
thanks everso much
Cheers
Bob R
Hi, need to remove the plastic factory fitted wheel arches, how do you get the studs out? Is it just pull and replace with new, is there a circlip, is there a special tool?
They look a fair price, think I will try the stove enamell route. The landie is white with black chequer plate so thinking about doing the hinges black as well, at least any rust won't show up as much then.
Bob R
The nuts are rounding off, will a 98 landie be metric or imperial. They are shielded by some of the other metalwork so not sure if I can get in with a grinder. Looks like I will be taking the sill off tomorrow to get better access. Simple job taking a bl*ody day :mad:
Managed to reverse my 'other' car into my Defender the other day. Big dent in the bumper, landie just shrugged it off. However, the main beam on both lights won't work now. They work on 'flash' but not on main, any ideas please?
I've read the forums and can see it's a pig of a job so will allow plenty of time. Don't want to spend hours replacing them and then as bad again in a few months.
How the flaming hector are you supposed to remove the side steps on a Defender 110? Front ones, fine, unbolt and off they come.
The back ones, no way! the bolts and their heads are unreachable, any advice greatly appreciated.
thanks
Bob R
Hi guys, I've recently bought a 1998 white Defender 110 and the hinges are bleeding rust. The car looks great apart from this. SS bolts have been fitted, but the rust is still there.
Questions:-
1) the later hinges have a grease nipple and washer to stop metal to metal. Phoned paddocks for a...