P38A EAS again.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
+1 the dash always beeps & displays the message when connecting EAS diagnostics. Same applies to Nanocom & EASunlock software.

Always use either the "Stop" button in EASunlock, or exit the menus on Nanocom before disconnecting the cable.
 
I have decided to swap out the rear springs while I am in there and treat some of the metal too to hold the corrosion at bay. Its not bad under there, but good to do while access is available.
I have de-pressurised and removed the air line plus the top and bottom R spring pins.
However, the top is not pulling out of the mount. The bottom is out, but the top does not want to move.
The springs themselves do not look bad, very minor signs of age, so with that in mind I am trying to get them out in 1 piece as spares (at least 1 of them).
Last time I changed them I had to smash through the top plastic section with a chisel, but really trying to avoid it.
Any tips on getting them out undamaged when the top is stuck?
Cheers
 
JamesBB said:
I have decided to swap out the rear springs while I am in there and treat some of the metal too to hold the corrosion at bay. Its not bad under there, but good to do while access is available.
I have de-pressurised and removed the air line plus the top and bottom R spring pins.
However, the top is not pulling out of the mount. The bottom is out, but the top does not want to move.
The springs themselves do not look bad, very minor signs of age, so with that in mind I am trying to get them out in 1 piece as spares (at least 1 of them).
Last time I changed them I had to smash through the top plastic section with a chisel, but really trying to avoid it.
Any tips on getting them out undamaged when the top is stuck?
Cheers
Click to expand...
Normally replace the clips, coat them on a little grease as it'll aid replacement and keep corrosion down👍
 
Mark Piercy said:
Normally replace the clips, coat them on a little grease as it'll aid replacement and keep corrosion down👍
Click to expand...
Yes I did that last time, will do this time too. The pins/clips came out easily. A crow bar and a push down on top managed to work the spring out.
RR spring.jpg
Made 2013 29th week, not perished. Good to keep as emergency spare. Now to the other side.
 
JamesBB said:
Yes I did that last time, will do this time too. The pins/clips came out easily. A crow bar and a push down on top managed to work the spring out.
View attachment 337506
Made 2013 29th week, not perished. Good to keep as emergency spare. Now to the other side.
Click to expand...
Got the RL off too. Much the same condition. No real signs of perishing. Will Keep as a spare.
Spent the rest of the time cleaning underneath and rust treatment of what little corrosion there seems to be.
 
OK check this out. What on earth is this cable?
cable.jpg
I took off the red tape as suggested to find the connector was totally destroyed underneath. Possibly part done by me taking off all the melted plastic that was bonding it together into a single mass.
This cable goes from the RL height sensor to the main wiring loom and uses the same connector that would normally go in the top of the sensor.
Where the plug on the loom is (which is undamaged) it is not long enough to reach over the chassis rail and to the sensor, which must have been why they extended it at some point. I had not noticed it before, so do not know how many years the extension piece had been there.
I have to get a new cable or at least fit a new connector to the end so I can get it to work.

At the moment both rear springs are in and replaced, all cleaned and painted then waxed.

WAS Unlock tells me both rear sensors are not working, both say signal incorrect. I need to finish the wiring repairs and then plug back in and see what happens.
Right now I am still getting the 35MPH max, even if I quit the diags then unplug.

The 4 lights on the dash are all flashing. Sometimes (before the error comes up it solid lights only the bottom and top ones, nothing in the middle. Then other times it solid lights the bottom and 2nd from top only, all others off. Then I get the EAS fault and all flash.
From what I read somewhere these light combos are codes that tell you what is/is not behaving. But I can't find the info I once found that explains that.

No other errors in EASUnlock. Engine running during diags.

Thoughts?
 
There’s different model sensors with different pins. Perhaps they botched what they had at hand together? Impossible to tell with previous owners. When you first take over a P38 most of the initial fixes are restoring POs bodges back to standard. Just make sure any replacements are the actual ones you need not necessarily the ones currently on there.
 
JamesBB said:
OK check this out. What on earth is this cable?
View attachment 337941
I took off the red tape as suggested to find the connector was totally destroyed underneath. Possibly part done by me taking off all the melted plastic that was bonding it together into a single mass.
This cable goes from the RL height sensor to the main wiring loom and uses the same connector that would normally go in the top of the sensor.
Where the plug on the loom is (which is undamaged) it is not long enough to reach over the chassis rail and to the sensor, which must have been why they extended it at some point. I had not noticed it before, so do not know how many years the extension piece had been there.
I have to get a new cable or at least fit a new connector to the end so I can get it to work.

At the moment both rear springs are in and replaced, all cleaned and painted then waxed.

WAS Unlock tells me both rear sensors are not working, both say signal incorrect. I need to finish the wiring repairs and then plug back in and see what happens.
Right now I am still getting the 35MPH max, even if I quit the diags then unplug.

The 4 lights on the dash are all flashing. Sometimes (before the error comes up it solid lights only the bottom and top ones, nothing in the middle. Then other times it solid lights the bottom and 2nd from top only, all others off. Then I get the EAS fault and all flash.
From what I read somewhere these light combos are codes that tell you what is/is not behaving. But I can't find the info I once found that explains that.

No other errors in EASUnlock. Engine running during diags.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
The 35mph message on the dash is normal as there is a hard fault recorded due to the sensors. The lights tell you nothing as far as I know apart from the height when working normally and the fact there is a fault otherwise.
 
JamesBB said:
OK check this out. What on earth is this cable?
View attachment 337941
I took off the red tape as suggested to find the connector was totally destroyed underneath. Possibly part done by me taking off all the melted plastic that was bonding it together into a single mass.
This cable goes from the RL height sensor to the main wiring loom and uses the same connector that would normally go in the top of the sensor.
Where the plug on the loom is (which is undamaged) it is not long enough to reach over the chassis rail and to the sensor, which must have been why they extended it at some point. I had not noticed it before, so do not know how many years the extension piece had been there.
I have to get a new cable or at least fit a new connector to the end so I can get it to work.

At the moment both rear springs are in and replaced, all cleaned and painted then waxed.

WAS Unlock tells me both rear sensors are not working, both say signal incorrect. I need to finish the wiring repairs and then plug back in and see what happens.
Right now I am still getting the 35MPH max, even if I quit the diags then unplug.

The 4 lights on the dash are all flashing. Sometimes (before the error comes up it solid lights only the bottom and top ones, nothing in the middle. Then other times it solid lights the bottom and 2nd from top only, all others off. Then I get the EAS fault and all flash.
From what I read somewhere these light combos are codes that tell you what is/is not behaving. But I can't find the info I once found that explains that.

No other errors in EASUnlock. Engine running during diags.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

As RRDT suggested they may have been trying to get a later / earlier sensor to work.

Other option is that they had Arnot 3 springs and longer shocks at some stage for greater articulation and had to extend all the sensor wires.
 
Grrrrrr said:
As RRDT suggested they may have been trying to get a later / earlier sensor to work.

Other option is that they had Arnot 3 springs and longer shocks at some stage for greater articulation and had to extend all the sensor wires.
Click to expand...
The sensors are fixed to the chassis, why would longer wires be needed for Arnott's? Longer actuating arms maybe.
 
Update time.

No new components were fitted when they tried the original repair, they broke it so wanted to fix it with minimal cost to themselves.

Regarding the extra cables........ I have checked, it does actually seem that all P38s (certainly early ones) have fly leads that connect the loom to the sensor itself. Mine has them on 3 corners and new sensor kits (stc3593aa) come with the cable/fly lead. This would seem to be verified by the fact there are cable brackets to hang the top connector on immediately above all sensors (at least on my car).
It makes sense, why would you not have a field replaceable item to swap out a cable that could be damaged? It makes no sense to cut into the loom every time.
The RR which is still playing up has no lead, it is hard wired in and the cable looks fractured and simply wrong.
Popping over to a couple of local scrap yards to see if they have any, I will buy both left and right rears.
The guys that attempted to repair it after the original problem must have really messed about with it and cut them out.
Let you know how I get on.
 
JamesBB said:
Update time.

No new components were fitted when they tried the original repair, they broke it so wanted to fix it with minimal cost to themselves.

Regarding the extra cables........ I have checked, it does actually seem that all P38s (certainly early ones) have fly leads that connect the loom to the sensor itself. Mine has them on 3 corners and new sensor kits (stc3593aa) come with the cable/fly lead. This would seem to be verified by the fact there are cable brackets to hang the top connector on immediately above all sensors (at least on my car).
It makes sense, why would you not have a field replaceable item to swap out a cable that could be damaged? It makes no sense to cut into the loom every time.
The RR which is still playing up has no lead, it is hard wired in and the cable looks fractured and simply wrong.
Popping over to a couple of local scrap yards to see if they have any, I will buy both left and right rears.
The guys that attempted to repair it after the original problem must have really messed about with it and cut them out.
Let you know how I get on.
Click to expand...
The early sensors have leads and are sided, the newer ones just have a socket and can be either LH or RH. Front and rear are obviously not interchangeable front to rear on both types
 
cornishboater said:
The early sensors have leads and are sided, the newer ones just have a socket and can be either LH or RH. Front and rear are obviously not interchangeable front to rear on both types
Click to expand...
Cheers.
Just went to look at one on another 2000 car, seems to be plugged directly in with no cable on the RR. So the RL on mine had been changed. I am starting to think mine is bit a hacked up hybrid sensor cabling wise..... I have ordered a new plug with a ready made length of cable for the RR, same as I used on RL. Either way I will need to do my own repair based on what works.
Just as a note. The RR sensor cable has a couple of wires that split off and head inboard towards to the top of the fuel tank. I am guessing this is a level sensor or maybe pump for the tank.
Hopefully the new cable section will arrive tomorrow and I can solder/heatshrink it in.
Fingers crossed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Montyjohn
P38A Adding a valve to manually fill EAS tank and why did my pump fail again?
Replies
14
Views
2K
Datatek
Datatek
M
L322 L322 stuck in extended height
Replies
2
Views
233
Blob
Blob
D
Eas system holds air then drops after driving and turn off
2 3
Replies
47
Views
2K
Datatek
Datatek
K
Is my RR Classic in EAS shutdown?
Replies
12
Views
1K
kevleaper
K
D
Nanocom in Preston Lancashire
Replies
19
Views
1K
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
Back
Top