P38A EAS again.

pwood999 · Mar 19, 2025

+1 the dash always beeps & displays the message when connecting EAS diagnostics. Same applies to Nanocom & EASunlock software.

Always use either the "Stop" button in EASunlock, or exit the menus on Nanocom before disconnecting the cable.

JamesBB · Mar 20, 2025

I have decided to swap out the rear springs while I am in there and treat some of the metal too to hold the corrosion at bay. Its not bad under there, but good to do while access is available.
I have de-pressurised and removed the air line plus the top and bottom R spring pins.
However, the top is not pulling out of the mount. The bottom is out, but the top does not want to move.
The springs themselves do not look bad, very minor signs of age, so with that in mind I am trying to get them out in 1 piece as spares (at least 1 of them).
Last time I changed them I had to smash through the top plastic section with a chisel, but really trying to avoid it.
Any tips on getting them out undamaged when the top is stuck?
Cheers

Mark Piercy · Mar 20, 2025

JamesBB said:
I have decided to swap out the rear springs while I am in there and treat some of the metal too to hold the corrosion at bay. Its not bad under there, but good to do while access is available.
I have de-pressurised and removed the air line plus the top and bottom R spring pins.
However, the top is not pulling out of the mount. The bottom is out, but the top does not want to move.
The springs themselves do not look bad, very minor signs of age, so with that in mind I am trying to get them out in 1 piece as spares (at least 1 of them).
Last time I changed them I had to smash through the top plastic section with a chisel, but really trying to avoid it.
Any tips on getting them out undamaged when the top is stuck?
Cheers

Normally replace the clips, coat them on a little grease as it'll aid replacement and keep corrosion down

JamesBB · Mar 20, 2025

Mark Piercy said:
Normally replace the clips, coat them on a little grease as it'll aid replacement and keep corrosion down

Yes I did that last time, will do this time too. The pins/clips came out easily. A crow bar and a push down on top managed to work the spring out.

Made 2013 29th week, not perished. Good to keep as emergency spare. Now to the other side.

JamesBB · Monday at 13:25

JamesBB said:
Yes I did that last time, will do this time too. The pins/clips came out easily. A crow bar and a push down on top managed to work the spring out.
View attachment 337506
Made 2013 29th week, not perished. Good to keep as emergency spare. Now to the other side.

Got the RL off too. Much the same condition. No real signs of perishing. Will Keep as a spare.
Spent the rest of the time cleaning underneath and rust treatment of what little corrosion there seems to be.

Grrrrrr · Tuesday at 07:37

Have to admit I cleaned out the rust and then whacked on a load of grease to try and protect it the last time I did mine. Didn't have any stonechip paint left!

JamesBB · 2025-03-27T18:06:09+0000

OK check this out. What on earth is this cable?

I took off the red tape as suggested to find the connector was totally destroyed underneath. Possibly part done by me taking off all the melted plastic that was bonding it together into a single mass.
This cable goes from the RL height sensor to the main wiring loom and uses the same connector that would normally go in the top of the sensor.
Where the plug on the loom is (which is undamaged) it is not long enough to reach over the chassis rail and to the sensor, which must have been why they extended it at some point. I had not noticed it before, so do not know how many years the extension piece had been there.
I have to get a new cable or at least fit a new connector to the end so I can get it to work.

At the moment both rear springs are in and replaced, all cleaned and painted then waxed.

WAS Unlock tells me both rear sensors are not working, both say signal incorrect. I need to finish the wiring repairs and then plug back in and see what happens.
Right now I am still getting the 35MPH max, even if I quit the diags then unplug.

The 4 lights on the dash are all flashing. Sometimes (before the error comes up it solid lights only the bottom and top ones, nothing in the middle. Then other times it solid lights the bottom and 2nd from top only, all others off. Then I get the EAS fault and all flash.
From what I read somewhere these light combos are codes that tell you what is/is not behaving. But I can't find the info I once found that explains that.

No other errors in EASUnlock. Engine running during diags.

Thoughts?

RangeRoller dt · 2025-03-27T18:31:30+0000

There’s different model sensors with different pins. Perhaps they botched what they had at hand together? Impossible to tell with previous owners. When you first take over a P38 most of the initial fixes are restoring POs bodges back to standard. Just make sure any replacements are the actual ones you need not necessarily the ones currently on there.

Mark Piercy · 2025-03-27T18:39:31+0000

That corrosion is going to cause no end crap with the signals.. That's a bodge if ever I saw one

Datatek · 2025-03-27T19:46:47+0000

JamesBB said:
OK check this out. What on earth is this cable?
View attachment 337941
I took off the red tape as suggested to find the connector was totally destroyed underneath. Possibly part done by me taking off all the melted plastic that was bonding it together into a single mass.
This cable goes from the RL height sensor to the main wiring loom and uses the same connector that would normally go in the top of the sensor.
Where the plug on the loom is (which is undamaged) it is not long enough to reach over the chassis rail and to the sensor, which must have been why they extended it at some point. I had not noticed it before, so do not know how many years the extension piece had been there.
I have to get a new cable or at least fit a new connector to the end so I can get it to work.

At the moment both rear springs are in and replaced, all cleaned and painted then waxed.

WAS Unlock tells me both rear sensors are not working, both say signal incorrect. I need to finish the wiring repairs and then plug back in and see what happens.
Right now I am still getting the 35MPH max, even if I quit the diags then unplug.

The 4 lights on the dash are all flashing. Sometimes (before the error comes up it solid lights only the bottom and top ones, nothing in the middle. Then other times it solid lights the bottom and 2nd from top only, all others off. Then I get the EAS fault and all flash.
From what I read somewhere these light combos are codes that tell you what is/is not behaving. But I can't find the info I once found that explains that.

No other errors in EASUnlock. Engine running during diags.

Thoughts?

The 35mph message on the dash is normal as there is a hard fault recorded due to the sensors. The lights tell you nothing as far as I know apart from the height when working normally and the fact there is a fault otherwise.

JamesBB · 2025-03-28T13:42:27+0000

Ordered a new cable and connector to solder into the RL side. Will use glue and heatshrink as suggested. The RH side is ok, just needs a clean solder join and glue/heatshrink again.
Update one done.

P38A EAS again.

pwood999

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JamesBB

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Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

JamesBB

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JamesBB

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Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

JamesBB

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RangeRoller dt

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Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

Datatek

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JamesBB

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