P38A P38 2.5 dse engine noise?

BDC · Oct 14, 2024

Short update about welding job.

Mark Piercy · Oct 14, 2024

That had to be a boat pusher in it's past

BDC · Oct 14, 2024

Mark Piercy said:
That had to be a boat pusher in it's past

Could very well be, but it wasn’t used according to the paper trail between 2012-13 till 2021. I think it sat outside for quite a while with of course defective air springs…

Mark Piercy · Oct 14, 2024

BDC said:
Could very well be, but it wasn’t used according to the paper trail between 2012-13 till 2021. I think it sat outside for quite a while with of course defective air springs…

OH dear, that is what happens to a lot of them

Datatek · Oct 14, 2024

BDC said:
Could very well be, but it wasn’t used according to the paper trail between 2012-13 till 2021. I think it sat outside for quite a while with of course defective air springs…

Like my project P38, abandoned in a vineyard with duff airsprings and a supposedly faulty BECM for some years.

BDC · Friday at 20:29

Hi it’s been a while since I posted here.

The car is back on the road since this week, it passed technical inspection without problems.

I used it a few times already on the highway and I noticed a beeping alarm at the 120/km mark.

This evening I thought I could disable this with nanocom in becm. I only saw 2 options 100 or 120. I changed it to 100 but after that the car refuses to start and I have no idea why.

I accidentally changed market setting with my fat fingers to not set. Reverting back doesn’t help. EkA and Immobilizer are disabled and no message appears on the dash.

The car cranks but won’t start. Of course this has to happen to me. I have the car for almost 2 years never changed becm settings before and never had issues and now the car is on the road and i can’t drive it anymore…

Something out of sync? I have no clue.
I noticed one can unlock the becm with the nanocom but it says it’s irreversible.

Ideas anyone?

BDC · Friday at 22:03

Well I’ve been sitting here all frustrated and decided to read up on the forum.

Found syncing issues are often the problem. Verified ems code in becm, it was reset to zero. Entered the correct code still didn’t work.
Went to edc utility menu and “set new to robust”.
She fired up straight away.

Not sure what to think of this?

BDC · Friday at 23:45

Now it starts and drove 20km and during the drive i got a gearbox fault.
Output shaft speed sensor issue, feels very sluggish from full stop and schifting is off

RangeRoller dt · 2025-02-22T00:25:59+0000

There is the possibility you have few problems arising, another possibility is phantoms from low volts. Always worth checking your battery is tip top particularly before using diagnostics

Mark Piercy · 2025-02-22T07:27:14+0000

The first rule of thumb is don't bugger around with the Nanocom before reading up on it!!

The speed limit warning is changed using the bottom button on the the indicator stalk.
Check the oil level in the gearbox as a precaution, especially after you said it had been sitting for a few years.

BDC · 2025-02-22T07:43:36+0000

Mark Piercy said:
The first rule of thumb is don't bugger around with the Nanocom before reading up on it!!
The speed limit warning is changed using the bottom button on the the indicator stalk.
Check the oil level in the gearbox as a precaution, especially after you said it had been sitting for a few years.

The gearbox had a filter and oil replacement just as transfer case and axels. There was some residue in the bottom of the gearbox oil pan. I cleaned it out and gave it fresh Julian’s filter.
The car hasn’t driven a whole lot in the past years but never had a gearbox fault.
It happened when i kicked down and shifted down a gear, it briefly showed gearbox fault. It was only apparent at standstill that the car didn’t shift “normally” anymore.

Datatek · 2025-02-22T08:01:56+0000

BDC said:
The gearbox had a filter and oil replacement just as transfer case and axels. There was some residue in the bottom of the gearbox oil pan. I cleaned it out and gave it fresh Julian’s filter.
The car hasn’t driven a whole lot in the past years but never had a gearbox fault.
It happened when i kicked down and shifted down a gear, it briefly showed gearbox fault. It was only apparent at standstill that the car didn’t shift “normally” anymore.

Gearbox fault is often just low battery volts. The beep at 120kmh is the speed warning that can be set or disabled from the button on the left stalk on the steering column, it's in the owners manual or RAVE. The EDC is always in Robust Mode, it's a setting that only applies to a brand new EDC.

Mark Piercy · 2025-02-22T08:59:27+0000

BDC said:
The gearbox had a filter and oil replacement just as transfer case and axels. There was some residue in the bottom of the gearbox oil pan. I cleaned it out and gave it fresh Julian’s filter.
The car hasn’t driven a whole lot in the past years but never had a gearbox fault.
It happened when i kicked down and shifted down a gear, it briefly showed gearbox fault. It was only apparent at standstill that the car didn’t shift “normally” anymore.

Something could have faulted in the box due to it standing for a while

BDC · 2025-02-22T11:29:34+0000

This morning no gearbox fault

drives normal. Verified output schaft signal on nanocom it seems that the signal is ok as seen by Ecu.
Think I’ll change the oil a second time +filter.

Charging voltage is around 13,8v.

Datatek · 2025-02-22T14:58:00+0000

BDC said:
This morning no gearbox fault drives normal. Verified output schaft signal on nanocom it seems that the signal is ok as seen by Ecu.
Think I’ll change the oil a second time +filter.

Charging voltage is around 13,8v.

13.8 volts Is too low, with modern batteries you need at least 14.4 preferably 14.8 volts. You need to swap the voltage regulator for a Mobiletron VR-VW010i. As things stand your battery will always be in a low state of charge which will lead to spurious messages like gearbox fault.

BDC · 2025-02-22T17:20:59+0000

Datatek said:
13.8 volts Is too low, with modern batteries you need at least 14.4 preferably 14.8 volts. You need to swap the voltage regulator for a Mobiletron VR-VW010i. As things stand your battery will always be in a low state of charge which will lead to spurious messages like gearbox fault.

Thanks I’ll look into it

BDC · 2025-02-22T18:03:15+0000

BDC said:
Thanks I’ll look into it

Datatek said:
13.8 volts Is too low, with modern batteries you need at least 14.4 preferably 14.8 volts. You need to swap the voltage regulator for a Mobiletron VR-VW010i. As things stand your battery will always be in a low state of charge which will lead to spurious messages like gearbox fault.

The regulator sits behind the alternator, isn’t there a complete unit available with the higher output regulator?

Where did you source it from? Directly from mobiletron?

Datatek · 2025-02-22T19:22:08+0000

BDC said:
The regulator sits behind the alternator, isn’t there a complete unit available with the higher output regulator?

Where did you source it from? Directly from mobiletron?

The regulator is an integral part of the alternator inside the black plastic rear cover. It is possible to change it without removing the alternator but much easier with the alternator on the bench. I got my new regulators from Ebay, I posted a link recently.
You can buy a new alternator with the higher voltage regulator if you have cash to spare, roughly £200 compared to £20

BDC · 2025-02-22T19:42:36+0000

I want to travel with the car to Italy next summer. I want it to be reliable and so I figured I might as well change the entire unit if the regulator is indeed a high output one. What would be a good brand alternator?

RangeRoller dt · 2025-02-22T22:56:28+0000

Honestly mate I don’t even know if complete units are available but it’s literally just couple of bolts.

Far easier than removing the alternator itself

P38A P38 2.5 dse engine noise?

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