This doesn't look right, 0.26mA is unrealistically low. Looking at the first picture, it seems like you have the meter connected incorrectly. The meter is set to mA but the red lead is in the A, not the VΩmA socket. Take care, most meters have a protection fuse, so if your drain is above...

Have you checked the idle current after 30 - 90 minutes after any door activity? It should be around 20mA or less.

+1 ^^ Back in the Covid lockdown days I had a similar problem as I was using the car rarely. It took little time to discover which fuse had excessive idle current. Your “electrical expert” should have been able to do the same. The car must be idle for 30 to 90 minutes with no door activity...

Agreed. 5 years ago I bought 3 x FTC4822.C8 from lrdirect. I used 2 and have measured my spare one. It measures 36mm. The 2 I fitted are still ok.

When the M&S lights are on, the oil pressure in the ‘box is maximum and this does cause quite a clonk going into reverse. Just a thought, before starting, move the gear lever from P to 1 a few times. This may “clean” the switch contacts. Worked on mine when it had the M&S P0705 habit.

Welcome to the asylum! Firstly, a Nanocom, or very similar, is an essential part of owning a D2!! You will save its cost many times over, probably in the first month of ownership. The sunroofs of my D2 are also haunted, possibly a D2 "feature". Sometimes they do the opposite of what the...

Very pleased it is OK now, but that was the same as mine, we were on the ferry for 6 hours and when started all was fine. Didn't put the Nanocom on it until we'd reached our destination. That was 5 years ago and no repeat since.

How far from home are you as the 'box will be in limp home mode?

OK, the only suggestion I have at the moment is to check the engine ECU plugs and see if you can get to the gearbox loom around that P-clip and maybe move it a bit. Maybe others have ideas? Good luck.

Can you clear the fault with the Hawkeye? I only have a Nanocom, so can't advise about the Hawkeye.

Has this a few years back. Switched off and left a few hours (I had to, I'd just driven onto a ferry). Came back, all OK and hasn't returned since. Is it permanent? The CANbus is for communication between the gearbox ECU and the engine ECU, so it may be worth checking the engine ECU...

If you haven’t seen it already, it’s worth looking at this: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector%20Seals.html

I did as above. I also put a small pipe into each cylinder through the injector hole and sucked any remaining diesel up the pipe at each TDC. There was a very small amount in each cylinder. And as a double double check I turned the engine over a few times with a spanner on the crank pulley...

I would get "live data" from the XYZ switch from the Nanocom and compare it with what it should be in RAVE. Depending on what version Nanocom you have, it may have WXYZ reversed, mine did. May give you a clue what the EAT is objecting to. The table from RAVE is attached. Good luck.

About 5 years ago I replaced the front swivels on mine and replaced the seals at the same time. I bought FTC4822.C8 from lrdirect. I bought 3 as I thought there was a chance I would damage one on fitting, which, amazingly, I didn’t. These have been fine since. I’ve just been out rummaging...

I’ve just done mine. I removed a pipe first to check the flare, which is a DIN type. I used a tool very similar to the one you list. It made flares identical to the ones on the original pipe. I also used copper/nickel pipe. Good luck, routing the pipe across the rear to do the O/S rear...

Not sure if it can trigger the 3 Amigos, but there is one behind the air box which is associated with the SLABS. I’m sure it was part of a bulletin. Maybe I can find it.

Check where the pipes run over the rear spring turrets. The pipes are almost hidden and that’s where mine rusted through and all the fluid went. Filling the reservoir had no effect, it needed proper bleeding to get fluid through. I used a hand vacuum pump to start with, then the Nanocom. Good...

Seems to be www.d2bc.net now.

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