Hi guys new to the forum.
Just bought a Discovery 2 TD5 04.
The saga starts with it feeling like its gone into limp mode on the test drive, no power. Had to stop because I literally could not get up any inclines whatsoever.
Then bumped into a Range rover owner who put on his ICAR soft diagnostics scanner. He couldn't see anything but not sure if its because the scanner wasn't compatible.
After a bit of poking about he suggested unplugging the MAF sensor and 'Hey Presto' we had power back.

Drove back to the sellers house thinking was just a dodgy MAF and got a better deal on the purchase.
On way home, drove on the motorway and then stuck in a traffic jam on motorway for a good 20 mins at stand still most of the time. Soon as traffic cleared I drove about 2 miles and then the limp mode came back. SRS light came on and ended up with no power so had to be towed home.
Was disconnecting the MAF just a coincidence.

Also at one point after turning off ignition and locking the door, I reopened, turned on the ignition and both sun roofs opened.

Any ideas. I am thinking of purchasing a Nanocom diagnostic scanner as I've seen some good reviews and don't want to waste money on something that's not going to be worth it in the long run.

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Apologies for the long post.

John

Well the nanocom will come in handy if you buy another D2 TD5.....
A little bit surprised you bought it if it behaved like that on the test drive.
A 10p engine can be driven for ever with the Maf disconnected, but I don't think the same is true with the 15p which is what you probably have although I think there might also be a 16p too.
Try reconnecting the MAF and see what happens, though you have probably already done that.

All the other weird electrical activity could be down to a weak battery and/or bad connections on the fuseboard or elsewhere.

japexup said:

Hi guys new to the forum.
Just bought a Discovery 2 TD5 04.
The saga starts with it feeling like its gone into limp mode on the test drive, no power. Had to stop because I literally could not get up any inclines whatsoever.
Then bumped into a Range rover owner who put on his ICAR soft diagnostics scanner. He couldn't see anything but not sure if its because the scanner wasn't compatible.
After a bit of poking about he suggested unplugging the MAF sensor and 'Hey Presto' we had power back.

Drove back to the sellers house thinking was just a dodgy MAF and got a better deal on the purchase.
On way home, drove on the motorway and then stuck in a traffic jam on motorway for a good 20 mins at stand still most of the time. Soon as traffic cleared I drove about 2 miles and then the limp mode came back. SRS light came on and ended up with no power so had to b
Also at one point after turning off ignition and locking the door, I reopened, turned on the ignition and both sun roofs opened.

Any ideas. I am thinking of purchasing a Nanocom diagnostic scanner as I've seen some good reviews and don't want to waste money on something that's not going to be worth it in the long run.

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Apologies for the long post.

John

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Welcome to the asylum!

Firstly, a Nanocom, or very similar, is an essential part of owning a D2!! You will save its cost many times over, probably in the first month of ownership.

The sunroofs of my D2 are also haunted, possibly a D2 "feature". Sometimes they do the opposite of what the switch says.

As yours is a 2004, you almost certainly have the 15P engine and can run with the MAF disconnected if it is faulty.

You need a Nanocom etc to diagnose the SRS.

Good luck.

Need a MAF to run well, only buy genuine, all other are pants.

Welcome back,

Firstly, take it for an MoT (Fresh set of eyes!! Even if it has one now! That will give you a basics of where to work?)

As above! Source Nanacome! Or borrow one for a couple of days.

I also have ICarsoft for mine! Good for quick reads!

Checks:
MaF?
Waste Gate (just had to do mine!! She's was bit laggy??)?
Fuel Filter?
Fuel pump (good pair of ears is good)?
SRS? Quick fix!
As for electronics! See what comes back after above?

Lots of info on here for that one!! If no luck? Ask for our resident NASA Engineer (@sierrafery)

You already have experience with Land Rover!

Kev

well its fixed yayy took it too a landrover garage no joy said it was MAF still no cure do took the plunge and bought a nanocom
after doing some shorts runs and it failing i checked all the data and deduced it was the turbo piped and hey presto it works.
Just been to the LRO show no probs so cracking on with all the little jobs new discs and pads on front,SRS fault sorted,EGR delete,cruise control fitted,boot lock replaced,rear transfer seal plus handbrake shoes getting there slowly next job is new springs and shocks managed to pick up some brand new rear springs from show plus all new mounting hardware and turrets any suggestions for decent shockabsorber's?

japexup said:

well its fixed yayy took it too a landrover garage no joy said it was MAF still no cure do took the plunge and bought a nanocom
after doing some shorts runs and it failing i checked all the data and deduced it was the turbo piped and hey presto it works.
Just been to the LRO show no probs so cracking on with all the little jobs new discs and pads on front,SRS fault sorted,EGR delete,cruise control fitted,boot lock replaced,rear transfer seal plus handbrake shoes getting there slowly next job is new springs and shocks managed to pick up some brand new rear springs from show plus all new mounting hardware and turrets any suggestions for decent shockabsorber's?

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Wow! you have been busy!
"took it too a landrover garage no joy said it was MAF" I hope you got your money back!
As for shocks, I used to like Gaz but others will jump on with their own favourites.

My brand new silicon turbo to rest-of-it pipe came off while I was on holiday in the Dales one Christmas. Fortunately ran into a kind AA man who flogged me a new big Jubilee clip. Luckily that was all I had lost.

Don't forget to do the exhaust manifold before it becomes hard to take off and you lose studs etc. Been there got the T-shirt. Not funny!

Well done and i hope you carry on enjoying it!

My advice to you is don't change what's not broken and save your money as you will surely need it going forward, especially if you plan to use LR specialists garages. As for the shocks, my preference is Kyb - they never disappoint, on any type vehicle. Enjoy and good luck.

Thanks for that could have bought a manifold at the show one of the stalls was selling de webbed and machine faced manifolds £100 each will know next time

many thanks john

japexup said:

Thanks for that could have bought a manifold at the show one of the stalls was selling de webbed and machine faced manifolds £100 each will know next time

many thanks john

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If yours hasn't gone too bad you can relatively easily do your own, will just cost the cost of refacing, unless (oops) you find you already have stud damage!.
When I had my manifold refaced it cost £60, twice what it should have as it was so badly warped they had to take much longer over it. Then it cost me the left hand threaded drill bits and "easyouts" etc to repair the stud damage.
So DO give it a serious looking at. Drilling broken off studs out of your head is no fun at all.