Mine burst last year in the same place. Seems a common problem. Lasted 11 years. Went for OEM as I have been told aftermarket ones don't last. Just grin and bear the cost.

I can thoroughly NOT recommend one conversion - a Perkins 4.236 Used to have one in my classic. PITA Tractor engine. Pull a house down.

Got the last of the bits in the post for a DIY turbo boost controller for my p38 diesel. Now need to make up a mounting bracket.

+1 on the chip. Try this guy: RANGE ROVER 2.5 TDS Power chip,Chiptuning !!! | eBay Make him an offer. Tried it in my diesel. Goes well.

The information I have got is that the front prop on the diesel auto is TVB000130. The V8 uses FTC4140 so they are different. You can run the car with just the rear prop shaft on while you get the front UJ fixed. Easy job. Any decent garage should be able to do it.

mcapinha wrote: I think there is crack testing and there is crack testing. Did they do just a dye penetration test using a UV light? Or was it a hydraulic test but at what pressure? Another question is it might be OK cold, but leak when it is hot maybe? I don't know. I assume you...

The engine actually sounds better on a veg oil mix. Obviously the burning characteristics of the oil are different. I suspect it is a longer burn because of the range of hydrocarbons in the fuel. It doesn't have the usual diesel "ping". I don't think it needs a cetane booster but I haven't tried...

Thor1950 wrote: Assuming that is a genuine question and not the usual cynicism found on this forum, I will give you an answer. I have done about 12,000 miles in the last 18 months on a 50/50% veg oil mix. Doing the sums I have saved about £600. Not a huge amount but worth the little bit of extra...

Not needed if you run a 50/50% veg oil/derv mix.

I have been running my p38 diesel on a 50/50% SVO mix for about 18 months now without any serious problems. Once or twice the veg oil has dropped straight to the bottom of the fuel tank causing starting problems. Other than that the engine runs well. Actually sounds better. I buy veg oil at...

You can microwave the dessicant. Just unscrew the top. Also try and separate the fines from the dessicant as it can get into the valve block.

Thanks. Good link to bookmark just in case.

I have got General Grabber AT2's on my p38. I find them pretty good off road and no problem at all in wet grass. In mud they are OK unless it is really deep and the treads fill up. Mind you my treads are like new which might be your problem. I have 4 wheel TC but the vehicle traction is that...

Datatek wrote: Mine is a 110AH Elecsol 950CCA. Not the battery. Something else going on with mine. Got new neighbours and problems started since then. Must be using something that interferes with RF.

stopover wrote: I have seen those Sealey starter packs. Do they have enough oomph to start a diesel p38?

Came out to start the car and found it had a flat battery. WTF. It still catches me out sometimes.

+1 on that If you try and run on a different size spare you can knacker the transmission.

With 16" tires almost anything larger than 255 x 65 will catch when the EAS fails and you are on the bump stops. Go much larger and the car will be immobilized. You can get round it by fitting extended bump stops.

Isn't it a diesel particulate filter rather than catalyst unit? Also why do you want to remove it?

A while back I enquired after one on Ebay that the guy said was the latest. I wasn't so sure and when I started asking him questions about it he was very evasive. I gave it a miss.