I do indeed have them, and actually have a mate around southampton at the moment who has had all of my syncmates returned to him, as I'm away working. If you still need one, the drop me an email at p38webshop@gmail.com and we can try to work something out.. Marty

That's a no from me too... sometimes it can be advantageous to reset the adaptive values - but that's more for if a MAF or O2 sensor has been replaced and the bad one has messed with the fuel trims. But faulty crank sensor should just be a replace and go job.

I am away working at the moment, and not back home properly until the start of April... I'll have a think and see if I can come up with anything, but if you are getting fuses burning out, and smell in the cabin, then I wouldn't be surprised if there's a damaged/shorting wire somewhere which is...

Just to update - as it has been awhile... BECM came to me, and was in alarm lockout. Reset that, and it seemed happy again. Sent it back about the 18th Feb...

Looked back at the start of the thread, and if it's a GEMS and is cranking, then it's not an EKA/BECM/Immobiliser issue. If it was any of that, then it wouldn't crank. About the only sensor that will stop the engine from starting is the crank sensor as it uses that for timing... cam sensors...

Sorry, I'm away working at the moment and haven't had time to catch up on forums.. As everyone else has said - if you have a message on the dash, then it's an immobiliser issue and EKA entry should fix that and allow resyncing of the key. If no message, but it turns over but won't fire up, then...

I did a writeup on Rangerovers.net back in 2015 about repairing switchpack switches - I also do repaired switchpacks on exchange for the faulty one if you don't feel like pulling yours apart. Though I am now going to be away for the next 6 weeks with work, so wouldn't be able to supply one...

Find another dealer... they don't know what they are talking about. The key fobs all have a hardware ID that they send out as part of the rolling code, which the BECM deciphers, and then checks to make sure the ID of the key that has sent to the BECM matches what it has stored. The fob code in...

If you have memory seats and feel like taking the chance superlocking it and hoping it all unlocks again... then... Set the seat at one extreme (say all the way forward) and store it as Memory 1. Do the same with the seat all the way back and store as Memory 2 Then, if you superlock the...

Yes, C101/C201

I think it will give a fault if the sensor is unplugged... I just mentioned in another thread on this same subject that on one I looked at, I swapped the sensor and same thing. Found the problem to be a bad pin in the connector on the vehicle loom side that was causing it. Replaced the pin...

Check the pins at the ultrasonic sensor - I had one where I swapped the sensor, and still had the fault. Looked closer at the pins, and one of them had corrosion on it, rather badly to the point where the wire pretty much came off in my hand. I wired another pin in and that sorted it in that...

As the others have said - but if it still comes up then its probably an issue in the latch. It could be that when it was frozen shut, and then subsequently opened (even after a bit of thawing) that one of the plastic components inside has gone snap and not operating the microswitch - or maybe...

RL6 and 7 are the main blower motor feeds. If they are getting hot, then worth checking the wires from the fuse box, through the 2 way connector in the RHF footwell, behind the kick panel and on to the blowers. I cut out my RHF footwell connectors awhile ago as 'preventative' measures as the...

They are cheap enough to get new I think http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/84381/5497/escutchion_door_sill_lock_beige_nrr The part number for Lightstone Beige is: EKC100310SMK

Glad it's sorted! The actual cam kit, (new) for the door with roll pin is only about £5 from Island 4x4 or LR Direct though!

From memory 3 flashes of the indicators (if set as the arm/disarm notification) is superlock. Also, the doors will lock once, and then about 30s later will clunk again as superlock is activated. Even if the superlock wires to the door latches have been cut, they should still clunk again, as...

It might be the sunroof that's doing it... To 'Set' the sunroof, roll it all the way back, hold for 2 seconds. Roll it all the way forward until it stops, and hold for 2 seconds. Release button and press again to move the sunroof to vent, and hold 2 seconds... .should then get 'SUNROOF SET'...

See the part number of the cam kit I listed up in the other post - that's what's missing from your picture... if you thing the nub on the end of the handle is too worn, then as I mentioned, the actual pull handle part can be swapped out. I am back home on the 10th Feb - so if you don't have it...

As Wammer said right at the start... If you lock with the fob, and unlock with the key then it will just unlock the drivers door. It doesn't necessarily mean the CDL is faulty. If you LOCK with the KEY then you should be able to unlock with the key and all doors should open. My best guess is...