As some of you know I have got myself a Range Rover sport in the Discovery 3 disguise but when I went to pick it up from the dealer and drove it for 600 kms it overheated without warning and blew the head gaskets so i took it back to the dealer and who looked into it and needed a new engine so I left it with them and got a secondhand engine fitted that has done about 70 000 kms so complete engine with FIP Injectors new belts and adjustors also a new Radiator as the car had been run through spear grass and the seeds had blocked radiator causing overheat and also a New Battery. went and picked it up monday and have now run it for 2000 km and all is ok. as the temperature is about 35 c here at the moment I had thew indows tinted to help the air con keep it cool .I dont care if it looks like a drug dealer.
Next thing is to fit side steps and a snorkel and mabee at a later date a Bull bar with winch and exta fuel tanks for when I take it on some desert tracks.
While I was up north I called into to see a friend who had a classic fitted out for desert tracks with an Isusu 4 lt turbo diesel and 200 liters of fuel tanks.and in his workshop is a classic 94 LSE the 8 inch longer version made for the Arabs in which he is fitting a 300 diesel.
I will keep you informed on any other things that will go wrong. Also driving this you need a university degree what with DSC hill descent control and different settings for different surfaces
 
Drove it. Towed a large trailer full of wood with the back full of wood too. The temperature guage did creep up as I had my foot to the floor going up a 1 in 3 hill in second but came back down fast when I got to the top!
 
Quick question, does changing the crankshaft position sensor on a Motronic P38 require some kind of "programming" or diagnostics tool to be run? I'm asking because my car dealers mechanic claims such is the case.
 
Quick question, does changing the crankshaft position sensor on a Motronic P38 require some kind of "programming" or diagnostics tool to be run? I'm asking because my car dealers mechanic claims such is the case.

I cannot imagine why that would be the case but I might be wrong. Sure a guru would know. @wammers ? @Saint.V8 ? @martyuk ?
 
Started making up and fitting an uprated headlight loom along the lines of the boomslang jobbie. Ran out of terminals to fit into the relays :(:oops: due to me using too much heat soldering a load of them up, after making up a dozen joints I realised the terminals had been annealed and wouldn't grip the male blades. Bummer. :mad::mad:
Latching terminals as I wanted to use relay holders to make a tidy job, just ordered some more off VWP, difficult to get off the shelf over here.
Note to self, buy a decent soldering iron - don't try cutting corners with a fecking blowlamp.
 
Quick question, does changing the crankshaft position sensor on a Motronic P38 require some kind of "programming" or diagnostics tool to be run? I'm asking because my car dealers mechanic claims such is the case.

That's a no from me too... sometimes it can be advantageous to reset the adaptive values - but that's more for if a MAF or O2 sensor has been replaced and the bad one has messed with the fuel trims. But faulty crank sensor should just be a replace and go job.
 
IMG_20180311_153838.jpg

Did some trail bashing with better half and two little people!:cool:;)
Damn she's dirty and loves it:rolleyes:
 
:mad:Well that is it, the car is on the drive its dumped all the coolant down the road, the rad top hose has split I have had enough its going:( I have had it over ten years and it has been good, dare I say it the most reliable motor I have had for the time I have owned it apart from my classic Cortina but that's a keeper till the end.
So I will stick a hose on it and refill the system as it hasn't cooked it and then its going
into retirement on a classic limited mileage policy and not the every day driver she was so now I will have time to do all the bit to it I could not as the misses was always out in it.
so happy day I get to drive it more:D:D:D:D, mind I might pinch her bemmer 320d now and again its nice and it had to have full cream leather and walnut to match the p38.
 
:mad:Well that is it, the car is on the drive its dumped all the coolant down the road, the rad top hose has split I have had enough its going:( I have had it over ten years and it has been good, dare I say it the most reliable motor I have had for the time I have owned it apart from my classic Cortina but that's a keeper till the end.
So I will stick a hose on it and refill the system as it hasn't cooked it and then its going
into retirement on a classic limited mileage policy and not the every day driver she was so now I will have time to do all the bit to it I could not as the misses was always out in it.
so happy day I get to drive it more:D:D:D:D, mind I might pinch her bemmer 320d now and again its nice and it had to have full cream leather and walnut to match the p38.
Range rover pįssy fit!!!:D
 
Had a tinker with adjusting the slack out of the steering box which seemed to work (tried it last week on my 90 first so I knew what I was doing) then took the steering wheel off and turned it round by 45 deg so it points straight ahead as well. Really don't know why PO hadn't done that himself, though to be honest I've driven it like that for the last 9 months.:eek::D
 
Q. Is there such a thing as a "complete" hose kit for a P38?
I ask because all the MOT failures on "The Lemon" have been "rubber-related"; so maybe I need to replace all the hoses?
Rather than wait till one pops.
 
I think you can get a complete hose kit for a gems but not a thor, I replaced all my hoses with OEM land rover, a much better fit than aftermarket.
 
I looked on the bay for a complete hose kit as I reckoned they are all the same age but no luck for the doozel, got a pair of rad hoses coming, there were kit for v8 for about £50 which I thought was not bad. will have a look for theothers
 

Similar threads