Wazzajnr · Feb 18, 2018

Hi all, my nanocom isn't working.
I've checked fuse 33 and that is fine and if I power it up on usb it works but won't communicate with anything.
I've got a window stuck down due to a dodgy switch pack and i need the car tomorrow.
Any advice on getting the Nanocom working or getting the window up would be greatly appreciated!

wammers · Feb 18, 2018

Wazzajnr said:
Hi all, my nanocom isn't working.
I've checked fuse 33 and that is fine and if I power it up on usb it works but won't communicate with anything.
I've got a window stuck down due to a dodgy switch pack and i need the car tomorrow.
Any advice on getting the Nanocom working or getting the window up would be greatly appreciated!

Do you have a working fob, if so lock car with it and continue to hold lock button down window should shut.

Wazzajnr · Feb 18, 2018

wammers said:
Do you have a working fob, if so lock car with it and continue to hold lock button down window should shut.

That has always worked before but for some reason now it doesn't work.
Typical of my luck that it happens just when I need it most!

wammers · Feb 18, 2018

Wazzajnr said:
That has always worked before but for some reason now it doesn't work.
Typical of my luck that it happens just when I need it most!

Contacts on switch are usually the problem. Easy enough to remove switch pack, cut the retaining plastic tabs on the switch in question and remove it from board. Cut away the clear plastic over the pop contacts remove and clean board contact area and pop contacts. Carefully replace pop contacts and secure to board with double sided clear tape. Ensure they are in correct position then push switch back in place. You can put a drop of super glue on plastic holding tags if you want to but double sided tape holds switch in place well.

Wazzajnr · Feb 18, 2018

wammers said:
Contacts on switch are usually the problem. Easy enough to remove switch pack, cut the retaining plastic tabs on the switch in question and remove it from board. Cut away the clear plastic over the pop contacts remove and clean board contact area and pop contacts. Carefully replace pop contacts and secure to board with double sided clear tape. Ensure they are in correct position then push switch back in place. You can put a drop of super glue on plastic holding tags if you want to but double sided tape holds switch in place well.

Thanks @wammers I've been putting that off for ages but i guess it's just become this afternoons job.
Still need to fix the diagnostic before I go off to Europe week after next though.
Any suggestions why that might not be working?

wammers · Feb 18, 2018

Wazzajnr said:
Thanks @wammers I've been putting that off for ages but i guess it's just become this afternoons job.
Still need to fix the diagnostic before I go off to Europe week after next though.
Any suggestions why that might not be working?

Not a clue other than it gets it's power from the OBDII socket but you have checked that.

Wazzajnr · Feb 18, 2018

Just pulled the socket out and it's corroded to hell.
Just need to try and get it cleaned up and hope for the best!
Cheers

Wazzajnr · Feb 18, 2018

Managed to get it working by using a paperclip to clean up the contacts and now got the window up.
Anyone know where I can buy a new OBDII socket?

DanClarke · Feb 18, 2018

In a purely jokey way I would say "Wire Brush & Dettol".
But really, if you can remove all power from it first .......
A little brass-bristled brush (or a stiif-bristled toothbrush) and WD40 for starters, then a flush wash and brush with either panel-wipe or contact cleaner before drying off and returning power to it as a very good interim measure.

wooly123 · Feb 22, 2018

Wazzajnr said:
Hi all, my nanocom isn't working.
I've checked fuse 33 and that is fine and if I power it up on usb it works but won't communicate with anything.
I've got a window stuck down due to a dodgy switch pack and i need the car tomorrow.
Any advice on getting the Nanocom working or getting the window up would be greatly appreciated!

went on nanocom website,with same problem,they said,must have fully charged battery,this worked for me,hope it helps,worth a try.

Wazzajnr · Feb 22, 2018

wooly123 said:
went on nanocom website,with same problem,they said,must have fully charged battery,this worked for me,hope it helps,worth a try.

It's a corroded plug in the car. I need to replace it and then all will be well hopefully.
Thanks for the info though.

cornishboater · Feb 22, 2018

Hi Wazza, RS Components have replacement connectors, albeit they are red

pwood999 · Feb 22, 2018

Follow this http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-perfectly-clean-wires-in-minutes/
Use a container that's large enough for the entire Diagnostic connector, and the contacts will clean up nicely. Works the same for contacts and copper wires.

Wazzajnr · Feb 22, 2018

cornishboater said:
Hi Wazza, RS Components have replacement connectors, albeit they are red

I looked at Rs as i have an account there but they only showed them in multiples of 500.
I've now found them at farnell. The plastic bit is about a tenner and 20 pins about the same.
I'll get one ordered before I go!

martyuk · Feb 22, 2018

I did a writeup on Rangerovers.net back in 2015 about repairing switchpack switches - I also do repaired switchpacks on exchange for the faulty one if you don't feel like pulling yours apart.
Though I am now going to be away for the next 6 weeks with work, so wouldn't be able to supply one until April (by which point you'll have fixed it

)

Writeup is here:
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-...nfo-repairing-window-switchpack-switches.html

Diagnostic connectors... these guys have some, which are actually labelled for 'Land Rover' whether they are identical to the P38 one, I'm not 100% sure - but they look like they are supposed to 'clip' in like the P38 one does. Might be an option if cleaning doesn't work
https://www.simtekuk.co.uk/index.php/automotive_connectors/diagnostic_connectors/

Re diagnostic power - another place to look (for reference) is RH footwell kick-panel connector - the power feed from the fuse box to the diagnostic connector goes through this 'well known' problem connector

Wazzajnr

Well-Known Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Wazzajnr

Well-Known Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Wazzajnr

Well-Known Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Wazzajnr

Well-Known Member

Wazzajnr

Well-Known Member

DanClarke

Well-Known Member

wooly123

Active Member

Wazzajnr

Well-Known Member

cornishboater

Well-Known Member

pwood999

Well-Known Member

Wazzajnr

Well-Known Member

martyuk

Well-Known Member

Similar threads