I thought the one at the very bottom, slightly on the right, was the wading plug. Then the other two (with the 1/2" square) were for timing. Since you've got that little hole, you don't need to remove the wade plug. Just don't wade too much. Particularly deep.

Not necessarily five.... - rust in frame bulkhead and door frames - pull the red ecu plug under the drivers seat and check for oil - if you have a friend with a nanocom, borrow it and check for codes. - check oil and coolant levels. Simply making sure they're not over or under. Smell the dip...

There's a thread or two on defendersource.com with a pdf or xls listing most all the bolt sizes for a 90. It's worth a check.

Google for hmmwv spare tire carrier. It has a ratchet mechanism to lower the spare. I'm sure you could change the mechanism to air or hydraulic.

I was wondering.. How does the defender TD5 sense overboost (MAP sensor in intake?), and when/how does the wastegate kick in. I know the Discos have a sensor attached to a pressure line, but the deefer's line goes to the metal hose between the turbo and intercooler. Does it get to a point that...

Snelly, that is about right. Just went and checked mine (10P). Mole grips move it about 5mm or so; and I'd say it's running great. Is there an issue you're trying to troubleshoot?

The lower heating vents are fed directly from the heater box on the opposite side of the bulkhead. Those circular vents in the A/C connect directly to the bottom of the dash, no real piping. Does the fan work? If not, did you check the fuses? If you adjust between the defroster and the...

If you have a nanocom or know someone that does, hook it up to see if it's throwing any codes. Outside of that: Pull and clean the intake sensors (AAP on intake manifold; MAF between air box and turbo; MAP connected to the air box lid). Can be cleaned with electrical cleaner or brake clean...

Elite Automotive : Providing heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) system solutions... These guys can probably help, unless you find an older version; but those block the scuttle vents.

It seems most diag tools report the same thing. My nanocom evo does the same thing. Not sure why. Can you open a support ticket with the Hawkeye manufacturer to have them look into it?

I got something called "peel and seal" off amazon. It's about the same material as dynamat, but a fraction of the cost. It's mainly used for roofing. Over this I used stall matting, cut to fit the footwells and load space. Hope the attachments come through taptalk.

Attached is a photo of the stall matting I purchased, cut to fit as front matts. 4x6 sheet, weights about 45kg. I did the same thing for the second row and cargo area.

What they said.... I have stall matting. It's about 18mm thick. Comes in a sheet, cut to size. Pretty cheap too.

That explains a lot... probably need a new switch. Definitely will check the wiring before I spend the monies though. Thanks!

Thanks for bringing this up. Mine is doing something similar. First two positions are like a mouse breathing on my ankles. The last is actually too much. TD5 heaters are fantastic, when they work.

personal preference... but I've always fancied the canvas type. They are $$$$$, but I hear worth every bit.

That's essentially what they are talking about. It's a straight through pipe that bolts in place of the silencer. weld in pipe... same difference, except you can't unbolt it. :) I have the pipe, just need to get off my bumm and install it.

The seam on the roof. Door hinges that rust.

From the other side of the pond... http://www.4xshaft.com/ Tom Woods makes some great stuff.

Genuine or britpart disks? Sounds like warped rotor.