Well, terra or Peter - lemmie know ASAP, cos it's all taking up valuable BBQ and garden party space ! Seems a pity to go to the scrappy, as i'm a FIRM believer in keeping things where they should be... on a series.

Post those pics of yer problem areas, and then we can advise better ;) It'll be a bit of work to get to the rear x-member properly. I've never done one on a 109, but the other lads on here will have some pointers ;)

seeing as we're on the subject of reverse gear... if it won't disengage is it more probable that there is shaft, or excessive tooth wear ? Once mines in, and being used, I have to double de-clutch to get the bastard thing to slip out.... sometimes twice...

nicely done dude ;)

Yup. all the glass is in there. Plus a few spiders :p

Thats a rubber seal dude. hang on i'll find you the part number... **edit** Here ya go. 333486 - you should be able to get it easily enough ;)

......theres a button up the top... it says "Search" next to it.....:doh:

Hey peeps - before i throw ths lot in the scrap bin - does anyone want - 2xrear doors and 2xside panels for a series 3 88" ? they're too good to lob in the bin, so a few beer tokens will see them gone. I'm in Weston Super Mare.

If the lobes are upwards, then its up the right way, so that's OK. if it's tilting the cab forward, then summat must be binding, as the strip sits on top of the tub, and the rear bulkhead. it literally is just a strip to fill the gap - there isn't really owt that can go wrong with it...

Well said - another sensible commited Landy owner :welcome::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2:

Base was from here - I used the Ace Primer, it goes on really well, and flats back brilliantly: Rust Solutions

have you got the filler around the right way fella ?

I brush mine on - and it's hard to get decent info from paddocks, but seems to thin nicely with turps, so assume it'll be a semi-synth Enamel. Dries rock-hard and applies evenly and beautifully. My 88" has 4 coats on a black base. one tin with a roller did the bulkhead, cab, and roof.

B.E.A utiful :D And yeah, Red oxide the whole area after yer done, and then Shultz the ferk out of it all - just make sure the schultz is nice and warm before you put it on (plonk the cans on the radiator indoors, or if your as me, shove them in the wifes saucepan and gently warm the tins in...

***update** So I decided to give the block one last test, as i'm buggered if i'm going to give up on this engine without trying everything in my arsenal. So as a final "lets just check" idea, used an old injector to make a basic leak tester.... We only got to 15psi, and the bores started...

Been busy - spending more of my already stretched budget..... New timing chain and gears, new valves, new head gasket, timing is now cock on, new Injectors, a second test distro pump.... Engine is STILL smoking like a ****, although it is running smoother now. Only summation now is a crack or...

House carpet - House. Automotive carpet - Cars. Seriously - do a proper job. There are too many people out there, who cut corners with Series Landys and end up, in most cases, spending the money they "saved" in the 1st place -plus more- to put the job right.......

Christ - is this forum a magnet for illiterate plonks ATM ????? It's like you've just vomited all over my screen... One last thing....... :jaw::jaw::jaw::jaw: Seriously ?????? What.The.****.

Most of my old links from a few years back seem to be dead >:/ There's a Dutch site that has a documentation area buried in it's dinglish html... found this for ya - hope it's of some use.... Examples of installs...

As a rule of thumb 1st Check: Tank Breather / screen filter. Main fuel Filter Air filter and Oil bath (if fitted). Distro Pump Filter (top of pump)