Pappasmurf
Well-Known Member
Fitted new temp sender, temp gauge now works. Fitted sound deadening to underside of bonnet. Not noticed much difference.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Ordered a pile of spares....
Rear Wheel Bearing Kits x2
Front Radius Arm Bushes x2 - Axle and Chassis
Lower Link Bushes x2
N/S/F Caliper
Going to be a logistics challenge on removal, getting the bushes pressed out/in then refitted with a Bank Holiday in the way - could do with an exchange service!
Rear Wheel Bearing Kits x2
Front Radius Arm Bushes x2 - Axle and Chassis
Lower Link Bushes x2
N/S/F Caliper
Going to be a logistics challenge on removal, getting the bushes pressed out/in then refitted with a Bank Holiday in the way - could do with an exchange service!
Alas I am already thus equipped! The problem is that the inner race of the bearing sits hard up against the shoulder on the hub flange so you can't get anything under the edge to pull on. If I was doing the job again, I wonder if I could have put the grinder in edgewise and carefully put some grooves in it to hook the puller's legs into?
Ouch! Good luck with that lot! I'm praying that the noise I was getting was from the front one, but I'll be gutted if it's still there afterwards!
neilly
Well-Known Member
OSF done t’other week, Landy garage did it when it went in for a collapsed Swivel.
Major sore arse......
Right, my clutch bits have just turned up. New friction plate:
![IMG_0010[1].JPG](https://landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/img_0010-1-jpg.178573/ "IMG_0010[1].JPG")
Depressingly, it is the same design as the one that failed. However the central boss on this one seems to have a slightly more generous lip staked over to grip the disc, so maybe it'll be OK. I have seen solid centred ones online but haven't tried one yet.
While I'm at it I might as well change the cylinders too:
![IMG_0012[1].JPG](https://landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/img_0012-1-jpg.178574/ "IMG_0012[1].JPG")
The current ones aren't very old but they haven't been brilliant. In my clutch change thread, I remarked that it was hard to keep the clutch in adjustment - the bite point kept creeping down until it was hard to change gear at all. Both a couple of weeks ago when I had the gearbox out and just now when I had it out again for the current clutch problem, the internal end of the slave cylinder was wet, so I think the fluid is creeping past the plunger on the old one. Plus I've adjusted the master cylinder so much that I've a) run out of thread and b) nearly stripped it anyway. So let's start afresh.
Maybe I can get started tomorrow night after I've had my dinner (work commitments this evening). I hope I can get it back together soon as I need to get it MOTed shortly. I don't think it specifically says you've got to have a gearbox installed in the MOT test guidelines, but it creates a better impression if you do.
Depressingly, it is the same design as the one that failed. However the central boss on this one seems to have a slightly more generous lip staked over to grip the disc, so maybe it'll be OK. I have seen solid centred ones online but haven't tried one yet.
While I'm at it I might as well change the cylinders too:
The current ones aren't very old but they haven't been brilliant. In my clutch change thread, I remarked that it was hard to keep the clutch in adjustment - the bite point kept creeping down until it was hard to change gear at all. Both a couple of weeks ago when I had the gearbox out and just now when I had it out again for the current clutch problem, the internal end of the slave cylinder was wet, so I think the fluid is creeping past the plunger on the old one. Plus I've adjusted the master cylinder so much that I've a) run out of thread and b) nearly stripped it anyway. So let's start afresh.
Maybe I can get started tomorrow night after I've had my dinner (work commitments this evening). I hope I can get it back together soon as I need to get it MOTed shortly. I don't think it specifically says you've got to have a gearbox installed in the MOT test guidelines, but it creates a better impression if you do.
Started putting things back together this morning. Clutch on and gearbox offered up. It went together fairly easily apart from the last few millimeters where it appeared to be binding on something. Usually once you can get the teeth on the flywheel to disappear the last little bit is plain sailing. Ah, I see what the problem is, it's pinching one of the pieces of conduit that go round the back of the engine. And I can't seem to get it untrapped. I'll go out again after lunch and see if I can get it out again. But there are two bits of conduit and a metal cooling pipe all packed very tightly together and hard to get at, so no doubt there'll be much struggling.
Pappasmurf
Well-Known Member
New Alternator fitted. Another easy job done. Gonna be looking at sound deadening on the interior tomorrow, bulkhead and transmission tunnel.
LoL - fear not, all safe in my Garage
Got the reassembly of the gearboxes finished today and put the rest of the trim in. Oh dear me, loads of smoke and rough running when I press the accelerator. Loads of error codes too, including noisy crank signal, high speed crank error, open circuit on injectors and much more. I took the crank sensor off and soaked it in electrical cleaner, wiped it off and put it back. No oil at the cylinder head loom multiplug, so I think that will live to fight another day. Seems better now. The only error codes to return are the usual tachometer open load and gearbox ABS open load ones that it always has. I hope it will stay that way for its MOT which is booked for Tuesday.
I must say I like my new clutch. Very smooth action, positive but not too fierce, and the master and slave cylinders bled straight away with no messing about. The rod on the master cylinder allows the adjuster nuts to move freely, and the pressure bleeder screws straight on, rather than having to be inched around laboriously with oil filter pliers like the old one. I think the old one must have had some poorly formed threads.
I must say I like my new clutch. Very smooth action, positive but not too fierce, and the master and slave cylinders bled straight away with no messing about. The rod on the master cylinder allows the adjuster nuts to move freely, and the pressure bleeder screws straight on, rather than having to be inched around laboriously with oil filter pliers like the old one. I think the old one must have had some poorly formed threads.
Been for another drive now the traffic is dying down. Not much smoke, good gearchanges, all the lights work, brakes reasonably sharp, no more error codes. I've put a slightly better seatbelt on, and a new air filter as this helps clean up the exhaust. So I've done all I can in preparation for the MOT.
