Took the bonnet spare off yesterday morning. It was looking a bit sorry for itself.
482446AC-753F-4AA7-B1CD-B25055692411.jpeg


Gave it a good grind down to get rid of the surface ****e. Painted a load of rust treatment over it around lunch time. With a day off beer of course
0D32785A-E69D-4225-A11F-48AD22CF3B0C.jpeg
All sorted.

Let that cure or whatever the word is for a few hours.

Got to painting, had to sit the tin in boiling water all the time or else it was like painting with glue.

589CAE21-8006-4DC1-8F16-DF25F8D6C24C.jpeg

A4CC0B58-BD73-4452-90A2-D89050E9514D.jpeg


TA DA
 
Pappasmurf said:
So do I need to put the thermostat on the "hot" hose?
Click to expand...

No leave where it is. No point moving it to come on earlier if there’s no water circulation in the rad.
As has been said take out the water thermostat and either check it works, and or run without and see how it goes.

J
 
marjon said:
No leave where it is. No point moving it to come on earlier if there’s no water circulation in the rad.
As has been said take out the water thermostat and either check it works, and or run without and see how it goes.

J
Click to expand...
I'll give it a go tomorrow.
 
Pappasmurf said:
How would the engine thermostat effect the fans separate thermostat?
Click to expand...
If you take the engine thermostat out the water will immediately circulate around the engine and the radiator. In this configuration it is unlikely that the engine will get very hot and your temp gauge needle should not get much more above the first thick white line on the gauge. If the needle goes to over half way, I would be suspecting a problem with the gauge or the sender unit. Unless, you are flogging it hard up a hill or you've been doing 60+mph on an open road for 10+ miles! Under those conditions, even with no stat in, it may well get to half way or a bit above.
If your fan sensor is in the top hose, then you would think your stat is opening, therefore, allowing hot water to flow and trigger the sensor and switch your fan on. IIRC the 300Tdi stat opens at 88 degrees (not sure about 200Tdi) I think the optimum running temp of the 300Tdi is about mid 90's (help me here gents) Soooooooooo...... I'm thinking...if your fan sensor is set at the lowest point (presuming 70 degrees from the website) that's set too low.
If the temp needle is going up that high either the stat is opening too late and so the water is getting very hot before being released, then the fan is cooling it down when it immediately gets triggered. Or, the sensor gauge is carped. At the moment, just going off what you have said, I'm suspecting thermostat issue. Either not working properly or, incorrect stat fitted. That's my thoughts anyway, marra :)
 
marjon said:
No leave where it is. No point moving it to come on earlier if there’s no water circulation in the rad.
As has been said take out the water thermostat and either check it works, and or run without and see how it goes.

J
Click to expand...
Sorry, been typing and eating my tea at the same time and have taken ages.
 
Pappasmurf said:
Thanks. I'll buy myself a new gasket tomorrow morning and I'll take the thermostat out. Got to change my alternator tomorrow anyway.
Click to expand...
Another thought for when you take the stat out, I think they have the opening temp stamped in to them? If it does, then you will know what it should be doing, if you have the right one and so if you think it's working properly. If you are going to replace it, don't buy a cheap one. I think Waxstat are meant to be good.
 
Al2O3 said:
Cheers, was hoping it wasn't too wordy, because I've had a few beers and on to the red wine now :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

For pappassmurf it now explains more how the system works, I sure he won’t mind me saying, but sounds like he’s on the learning curve. Hey we all been there.
So was definitely not long winded.:)

I have run a car with no belt drive water pump or PAS (saps hp) and ran a variable speed electric water pump with accurate digital temp readout so fine on/off adjustments could be optimised.

I only popped in to confirm what you had said,to help confirm. And in the hope of convincing @Pappasmurf to check what you suggested. As I have also said to myself before “but it’s new how can it not be working”:oops:

Enjoy your wine:D

J
 
marjon said:
For pappassmurf it now explains more how the system works, I sure he won’t mind me saying, but sounds like he’s on the learning curve. Hey we all been there.
So was definitely not long winded.:)

I have run a car with no belt drive water pump or PAS (saps hp) and ran a variable speed electric water pump with accurate digital temp readout so fine on/off adjustments could be optimised.

I only popped in to confirm what you had said,to help confirm. And in the hope of convincing @Pappasmurf to check what you suggested. As I have also said to myself before “but it’s new how can it not be working”:oops:

Enjoy your wine:D

J
Click to expand...
I've been lucky and never bought a new stat that has been unreliable, but read lots of posts from folk who have.
Defo enjoying the wine (Friday night treat) :)
 
@Pappasmurf, have you just put the original engine up for sale?
@Al2O3. I don’t know the engines you may

Are the 2 sender/gauges compatible? I know they don’t mix well sometimes and it may explain your gauge going up high. When in reality it’s fine.

Just a thought:) it hurts now need to have another beer:)

J
 
marjon said:
@Pappasmurf, have you just put the original engine up for sale?
@Al2O3. I don’t know the engines you may

Are the 2 sender/gauges compatible? I know they don’t mix well sometimes and it may explain your gauge going up high. When in reality it’s fine.

Just a thought:) it hurts now need to have another beer:)

J
Click to expand...
You might have hit the nail on the head there! :)
 
marjon said:
@Pappasmurf, have you just put the original engine up for sale?
@Al2O3. I don’t know the engines you may

Are the 2 sender/gauges compatible? I know they don’t mix well sometimes and it may explain your gauge going up high. When in reality it’s fine.

Just a thought:) it hurts now need to have another beer:)

J
Click to expand...
I have, yes. I wouldnt have thought there'd be that much difference.
 
front axle strip down on the S1. So journey up to Birmingham for garage time & see the family.
Replace 1 chrome ball,bearings etc press shaft bearing in
Other side fine.
New bearing,swivel pins etc

Best bit I only have to do 1side SIL does the other for me
All the nuts bolts came undone. The mrs must have done a good job copper slipping everything when she built it.

Just building back up tomorrow.

B8E61F3B-7B3E-4C55-B1A3-B9E9B9F649BB.jpeg DDC08564-A9FD-4181-8387-DB8DCD4E4834.jpeg
 
Jobs a good’n

Have I got the z clamps the right way round? I saw it differently online but that’s how he previous guy had it.
384A1E97-4D1B-4392-BC43-22278275C0CB.jpeg
 
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