I opened the tail door window for the first time, and it dropped down .... now it doesn't want to go up...
I removed the plastic cover and the foam to to have a look what happened, looks like one of the metal string is cut and the motor doesn't function, only ticks when I press the up/down buttons. So I propped it to have up so I can lock the car for the night.
But that's not the end of the story.
When I tried to start the car it turned the engine once and stopped, looks like the battery died or there is some shortcut... possibly I messed something up when playing with the window mechanism
:(
 
Drained and refilled the IRD on my TD4 Auto. Quick and easy job. I had prepared various breaker bars and scaffold poles for the drain and fill plugs based on stories about how difficult they can be sometimes. Both undid without any fuss using 6 sided sockets. Nothing of note on the magnetic drain plug so looking good. Rear diff next.
 
I opened the tail door window for the first time, and it dropped down .... now it doesn't want to go up...
I removed the plastic cover and the foam to to have a look what happened, looks like one of the metal string is cut and the motor doesn't function, only ticks when I press the up/down buttons. So I propped it to have up so I can lock the car for the night.
But that's not the end of the story.
When I tried to start the car it turned the engine once and stopped, looks like the battery died or there is some shortcut... possibly I messed something up when playing with the window mechanism
:(
Very common fault unfortunately. Plenty of new window regulators on eBay though.
 
What is worrying me is the electrical problem.

What electrical problem? A flat battery could be due to the rear door motor trying to move a window that won't move. It'll draw lots of current, and potentially flatten a battery that's on its last legs.
 
What electrical problem? A flat battery could be due to the rear door motor trying to move a window that won't move. It'll draw lots of current, and potentially flatten a battery that's on its last legs.
OK, I didn't realize that it consumes so much it could drain the battery in short period of time. I'll jump start it in the afternoon and see how it goes from there.
 
OK, I didn't realize that it consumes so much it could drain the battery in short period of time. I'll jump start it in the afternoon and see how it goes from there.
Potentially it can draw 20 Amps or more. It shouldn't as the CCU should cut the power if there's an issue, but you never know with such things. I'd unplug the window motor, and recharge the battery.
 
Potentially it can draw 20 Amps or more. It shouldn't as the CCU should cut the power if there's an issue, but you never know with such things. I'd unplug the window motor, and recharge the battery.
Thanks for the tip, last night I disconnected the battery. I'll do the motor today instead and try to recharge.
 
Further to yesterday's post, the tyres I had fitted are Event ML698+, all season, all terrain, 235/65 R17 108H.
They came in at £90/corner, inc. VAT, new valves, balancing and disposal of the old 'uns.

Too soon to comment on dry/wet/mud/snow handling or longevity. Noise level is a bit higher than the Wranglers they replaced, but nothing too intrusive, nor is there any buzz or vibration coming up the steering wheel. Tread pattern looks similar to BFGoodrich AT tyres. Bring on winter!
946682.jpg
 
I changed from my wheels with the KL71's and fitted the other wheels with the BFG All Terrains, original trad pattern not the KM2 new ones, which are basically the same tread pattern as the Events that @Rank Amatuer fitted and can confirm they are pretty civilised on the road. Obviously the compound of rubber used in each tyre will be different and have a huge effect on grip levles etc. Only downside is not I'm not getting deafened by KL71 tyre noise, I can hear the various mechanical noises, which brings me nicely to what have I done to my freelander today? - front diff mount. Day before that I gave it its first wash in 5 months.
 

Similar threads