andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Probs the solenoid not doing what it is told by the EDC. Check plug and that it operates the turbo actuator once you have vacuum connected.
SullyUk
Member
So is that the one underneath the drivers side or on the front near the EGR?? So I know where to look Andy. cheers Sully
STC4198 - SOLENOID VALVE - EGR TD4 FREELANDER 1
Supplier: EAC | Brand: PIERBURG | Type: OEM | Product: STC4198[/QUOTE]
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Underneath, drivers side. Easy access from underneath the vehicle. Also you can see the turbo actuator to see if it moves when fixed. The one near the egr operates the egr!!!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It's the boost control solenoid, at the rear of the engine, just to the right side of the turbo. Also a failing MAF will give sluggish low Rpm performance, and delayed starting in some cases too. Basically the EDC compares the air mass going through the MAF to boost pressure, and cuts back on fuelling, if the MAF isn't registering enough air to burn the fuel.
The whole system needs to be in balance, or performance is deliberately reduced, so the burn is as clean as possible.
Replaced last turbo pipe - short elbow that comes off the turbo. In the end had to cut it off with Stanley knife and hope like hell I could get new one on. All good. Did notice old hose came off the one side very easily (while the other stuck like glue), and think maybe seal could have been compromised. Also replaced the small vacuum pipe from solenoid to turbo, and that too came off the turbo side very easily.
With all that done now it feels very different to drive, even if the bloody thing still delivers a puff of black smoke when I floor it. Main difference is how much better the gear changes are. I'd like to get my head round the reason for that.
With all that done now it feels very different to drive, even if the bloody thing still delivers a puff of black smoke when I floor it. Main difference is how much better the gear changes are. I'd like to get my head round the reason for that.
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Maybe Nodge - is it an alloy one?Will you be able to fit in an MGF radiator? I've got a new one going cheap!
I don't know if I'll have a FL1 on the road, by the time you're down this way though. My TD4 really isn't playing ball.
Always good to keep a spare.Sorry to hear about the naughty TD4. Hope you can get her to play ball: let me know!
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Fun and games of the "Three Amigo" flavoured variety. The original Wabco-labelled NS front ABS sensor is dropping out, so I have a new replacement from the bay of fleas. It's been in the hub for the last 18 years, but I thought I'd give it a go trying to pull/lever it out of the hub. Predictable results I am afraid:
Not even abusing a slide hammer could pull the flipping thing out without tearing the metal casing. I even tried drilling, but I presume it has a ferrous magnet core that is impervious to my drill bits. It is, I am afraid, well and truly stuck in there.
And, as you can see, the sensor has gone from intermittently not working to permanently not working LOL
Oh well. It was worth a shot. And now, I'll have to dissemble the hub (like I had to on the other side) and bash and drift the errant dead sensor out. Ugh."Simple job" has morphed into much bigger job. Typical.
Not even abusing a slide hammer could pull the flipping thing out without tearing the metal casing. I even tried drilling, but I presume it has a ferrous magnet core that is impervious to my drill bits. It is, I am afraid, well and truly stuck in there.
And, as you can see, the sensor has gone from intermittently not working to permanently not working LOL
Oh well. It was worth a shot. And now, I'll have to dissemble the hub (like I had to on the other side) and bash and drift the errant dead sensor out. Ugh."Simple job" has morphed into much bigger job. Typical.
weemac
Well-Known Member
What a ballache. Sorry to see things descend to that state. At least you're versed in what's needed to get it fixed. It's got me thinking I should pull and replace mine now while there's still something left on them. Keep yer chin up
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Cheers mate. Probably won't have time to do anything for the next couple of weeks (nice excuse - preparing the MGF race car next weekend and then racing it the following weekend), but yes, having been through the "fun" before will hopefully make things a little easier on this side. Moreover, I won't be needing to replace the lower wishbones and brake calipers this time (which was necessary as part of the last attempt!)
Semi-tempting to start fitting a +40mm lift kit, but I'll resist that for now!
Semi-tempting to start fitting a +40mm lift kit, but I'll resist that for now!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
As far as I remember, it's an alloy matrix, with plastic tanks. I bought it new for my MGF, which is sadly no more. I've kept the VVC head(I actually have 2) as I thought it would make a nice bit valve head for a standard K series.
I'll have a look at the rad, before your visit.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
You should be able to drill it OK. A decent HSS drill should do OK, but a carbide drill definitely will get the job done.
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
I was using a cordless, so perhaps didn't have the welly necessary. Perhaps I'll give it another go - because if there is enough meat, I'll drill and tap for a high tensile M8 or M10 bolt and see whether some slide hammer welly will shift it. Otherwise it will be upright and hub off time - here's what I had to do last time!You should be able to drill it OK. A decent HSS drill should do OK, but a carbide drill definitely will get the job done.
Expanding ferrous oxide presumably made it extra tight:
