Just crawled out from under mine after changing all 3 diff mounts. I've a feeling a new back box may be on the cards soon having been up close and personal with it most of the afternoon. On a lighter note the clunk when setting off and the funny vibration while driving has gone....for now.
 
Prepped it as best I can for tomorrow's MOT...(!) Did a stripdown and reassembly of rear brakes to adjust the handbrake, and changed the bulbs in the rear numberplate light.
 
Started getting delivery of the spares for my TD4 refurb which will be started very soon. I am running my recently restored V6 while the work goes on.
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Nothing wrong with the car, just some bits are getting worn / rusty. Work will involve new shock absorbers, replacement diff (bit whiney), powder coat rear subframe and suspension components, new fuel tank cradle, replace brakes and pipes, waxoyl and replace underseal as required.
Will start a new thread with photos when I start. Completed a spreadsheet of nuts, bolts and washer part numbers to save time.
 
It did! Thanks for asking! Advisories (or "monitor and repair if necessary", as they're called these days) on both front brake discs (which was a fair cop as they're both on the bottom limit for thickness) but no mention of the rusty fuel tank cradle. So that's good.

Just the IRD rebuild now...
 
It did! Thanks for asking! Advisories (or "monitor and repair if necessary", as they're called these days) on both front brake discs (which was a fair cop as they're both on the bottom limit for thickness) but no mention of the rusty fuel tank cradle. So that's good.

Just the IRD rebuild now...
I'm curious to know... did yer see them measure the disc's or is there a wear limit marker or did they just go by sight?
 
I'm curious to know... did yer see them measure the disc's or is there a wear limit marker or did they just go by sight?
To be fair, I knew they were at minimum thickness because I'd measured them he other week, but the actual comment was "...worn, pitted or scored but not seriously weakened". They're certainly worn. and the inside faces of both of them have a few ridges in them.
 
So, the old girl has made it as far as Inverness today. I didn't want to spam the forum too much with posts so thought I'd put a few pics from the last few days on in one go. Whilst the lads have been cycling I managed to do the three peaks, culminating with Ben Nevis today. The motoring has been a joy on the very empty and scenic Scottish A roads. I also reckon LR should employ me to do their marketing pics...
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So, the old girl has made it as far as Inverness today. I didn't want to spam the forum too much with posts so thought I'd put a few pics from the last few days on in one go. Whilst the lads have been cycling I managed to do the three peaks, culminating with Ben Nevis today. The motoring has been a joy on the very empty and scenic Scottish A roads. I also reckon LR should employ me to do their marketing pics...View attachment 190490 View attachment 190491 View attachment 190492 View attachment 190493

It's good to see the FL1 get so far from its home county. I assume it's keeping its coolant now.

I love Scotland and l all it has to offer. Well done on Ben Nevis, I've not done it since I was in my 20s. I'm not sure I could do it these days.

I fancy driving General Wade's road one day, but I'm not sure how the FL1 would cope with it.

Nice pictures too. ;)
 
Took my 2005 TD4 HSE for MoT. Pleasantly surprised needed a front roll bar drop link ball joint and a couple of tyres. All sorted. Two new tyres on the back. What a difference from my Discovery/Series/Classic RR days wondering just how much welding would be needed :(. Although the fuel tank cradle is definitely something to watch for the future.:)
 
2 new tyres on't front. 195/80/15. Puncture forced the issue. New ones soooo much quieter than the old Hankook atrocities. Keeping this one for repair despite the rod being about three inches into the tyre. It's a near identical OD to the new Uniroyal Rallye so will serve as a half decent spare. I'm Mondo so mis-matched tyres aren't a problem 'til we get the prop shafts back on.

I laughed at the tyre place getting a bit carried away with their crayon...

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2 new tyres on't front. 195/80/15. Puncture forced the issue. New ones soooo much quieter than the old Hankook atrocities. Keeping this one for repair despite the rod being about three inches into the tyre. It's a near identical OD to the new Uniroyal Rallye so will serve as a half decent spare. I'm Mondo so mis-matched tyres aren't a problem 'til we get the prop shafts back on.

I laughed at the tyre place getting a bit carried away with their crayon...

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Don't the folk hereabouts suggest the new tyres should go on the rear?
Edit LOL, shoulda looked before leaping. I missed the bit about Mondo mode. :oops:
 
It's good to see the FL1 get so far from its home county. I assume it's keeping its coolant now.

I love Scotland and l all it has to offer. Well done on Ben Nevis, I've not done it since I was in my 20s. I'm not sure I could do it these days.

I fancy driving General Wade's road one day, but I'm not sure how the FL1 would cope with it.

Nice pictures too. ;)

I can confirm the coolant is all still present and the highly efficient heater has been employed to dry out sodden gear frequently on the trip.

Regarding the pics, i seem to have endless scenic photos now, having driven from Snowdonia, through Cumbria and then on to Ben Nevis via various mountain ranges in Scotland. Glen Coe was the highlight so we're going to come home that way tomorrow.
 
Don't the folk hereabouts suggest the new tyres should go on the rear?
Edit LOL, shoulda looked before leaping. I missed the bit about Mondo mode. :oops:

I thought it was the opposite given the front wheels do most of the work. But I've been wrong before :D Rear tyres still got 6mm+ and that's all I'm bothered about with MOT imminent :eek: Been nursing a binding N/S/F brake so t'other tyre was on the limit, hence replacing two tyres! New discs, pads and rattle clips bought and fitted tonight hopefully.
 
I thought it was the opposite given the front wheels do most of the work. But I've been wrong before :D Rear tyres still got 6mm+ and that's all

The new tyres should always go on the rear. This is to ensure that the VCU is always dragging the IRD output. If the smaller tyres are the rear (new on the front), then the VCU will try to drive the IRD, which does overload the gears and bearings.
 
The new tyres should always go on the rear. This is to ensure that the VCU is always dragging the IRD output. If the smaller tyres are the rear (new on the front), then the VCU will try to drive the IRD, which does overload the gears and bearings.

Thanks Nodge. That's knowledge I'll definitely be retaining for getting the 4WD back online. As I'm only 2WD, it'll be fine for now I suppose.
 

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